Sunday, February 13, 2011

Ukai: Sushi Space Reinvigorated

A couple of years ago I tried MatsuYama for sushi and was not impressed--I don't recall specifics, but at the time I remember making a mental note to avoid going back.  Fast forward a year, and I moved just a block from MastuYama...but still avoided it no matter how strong a sushi craving came.  Months later, MatsuYama closed.  More months later (late 2010 now) and the space is once again a sushi spot, this time under a new name: Ukai.  After driving by it daily for months & reading several good reviews, I ventured in last week to see if this new restaurant could fill the need for a lazy-close (read: walk to it despite single-digit temps) sushi spot.

The Space
Dark toned wood & walls with warm red accents.  Nice reeds break up the room a bit.  Plenty of candles to make up for low lights.  Decent sized sushi bar to seat 8.  Warm, clean, with a good vibe & pleasantly simple Asian decor.

The Food
We started with the Tuna Tataki app.  Tuna was good, yuzu air was a great touch, and assembly with the dried seaweed salad made for plenty of flavor in each bite.  The Sox roll was our first roll.  Tuna-based roll with interesting play of flavors.  Avoid if you are spice-averse but I thought it was very good; actually had some complexity to it.  Then was the Ukai Dynamite, a scallop-based roll.  This was also good.  Not nearly as spicy as the Sox roll, but also had a touch of warmth.  All plates were presented well, delivering to the eyes as well as the taste buds.

The Wine
I grabbed a Riesling when walking out the door.  This didn't work out so well; either the Riesling was too dry or the rolls we ordered were too spicy, but the pairing just wasn't great.  Next time I'll stick with either bubbly (Extra Dry Cava from Aria would probably work for $10) or beer (Goose Island's Sofie would be perfect).  As always with sushi, bubbles help clean the palate of the rice's stickiness & any spice.  An Italian Prosecco, which often has some sweetness, could also be worth grabbing.  Find something with bubbles, and if it's wine, be sure it has a little residual sugar (especially important if you're into spicy rolls).

The Whole
I was impressed.  The place & plates looked great, the sushi was certainly above average, BYOB without corkage, and the bill came in low ($15 each after tax & tip).  Living within a 5 minute walk of this place puts it into "dangerous" territory for me.  It's nice enough to take a date to before a show, but affordable enough (and with a large enough menu) that I won't hesitate to head back repeatedly, whenever the sushi craving hits.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Pizza Rustica

To wrap up my holiday break, a friend and I spent last Sunday evening catching a movie & dinner together.  I wanted someplace new, with warm food to break through the weather's chill.  A bit of searching built my interest in Pizza Rustica.  After seeing Black Swan (highly reco'd), we headed a bit north to give this neighborhood Italian place a try.

The Place
Small room near Irving & Sheridan (right across from Tac Quick, a favorite Thai spot) convenient to the Sheridan red line.  Tables are arranged for intimacy over efficiency.  Kitchen is in view behind the bar.  Interesting original art is scattered on the walls.  Inviting & warm.

The Food
I was drawn to this place after reading about the quality pizza they serve--so we went straight to that section of the menu.  My friend & I split four "slices", which are each a quarter of what Pizza Rustica considers to be a full pizza.  Here they are served as rectangles & cut into smaller squares.  We stuck with the menu's house pizzas and ordered the Margherita, Verdure Grigliate (veggies), Quattro Stagioni, and Tutta.  Here the pizzas are cooked in an electric oven--not quite as authentic as a wood or coal fire piece, but it's hot nevertheless--and achieve the great balance of crispy outside, soft-baked inside that sets the base for delicious pizza.  The interior of the crust felt slightly grainy in a very good way...great texture.  The sauce was good, as were the toppings, but neither were as impressive as the crust.  Overall, a good pizza. My favorites were the Quattro Stagioni and Tutta.



The Wine
Pizza is time-tested with Chianti (from the Sangiovese grape) and beer.  What did I take?  California Syrah.  Why?  I knew my friend would like it, and the honest truth is that pizza goes with just about any wine that isn't oak-heavy or jammy (these kind of wines tend to dominate the pizza & don't work with the acid in a tomato sauce).  "What to Drink with What you Eat," my go-to reference book for pairing guidance, lists the wide array of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Valpolicella, and Champagne as good pizza pairings (among many others).  I'm not sure any other main-course food is as flexible as pizza.
My advice: take something you haven't had before.  If you want to geek out, try and notice how the different toppings change the wine--the influence of our Tutta's bleu cheese vs. the Quattro Stagioni's artichokes was noticeable & interesting.  Ask the worker at your favorite wine shop for something "off the beaten path, that isn't heavily oaked or over ripe."  Bonus points if this leads to an Austrian red, indigenous Italian grapes, or a strange blend from southern France.  Of course, it's tough to go wrong with the standard Chianti (I reco anything from Felsina) or beer (avoid hops...stick to pilsners & ambers--like the Great Lakes Elliott Ness).

The Whole
Count me as a fan of Pizza Rustica's good atmosphere, friendly staff, and great pizza.  I'm pushing myself to make it to many thin-crust places this Winter, but after that exploration I bet Pizza Rustica keeps a spot in my regular rotation.  Added bonus: it's not an expensive meal out.  After the bill, tax, & tip we spent ~$18 total for 2.  Good food, good price, and flexible wine pairings?  Yep, this place is worth visiting--and likely repeating.

Wine I took:
2006 Zaca Mesa Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley (1/2/2011)
Nose of dark red fruits, crushed red cherries, a hint of dried herb, and a noticeable streak of oak (chocolate & currant). Palate is pretty smooth--nice sour cherry, rich dark red fruits, and some spice tones to it. Multiple components, for sure. Decent structure, but it's hardly noticeable behind the dense finish and hint of alcohol. Good length too. (88 points)



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