Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Tango Sur

3 friends & I often get together for dinner on Sunday evenings. This past go 'round, we expanded our group to 9. With a big group of friends likely to be a little loud, Tango Sur provided the ideal match of atmosphere, affordability, and huge chunks of meat. Of course the BYO option is a positive as well. I felt fortunate to procure a reservation for nine at 7 o'clock, and what followed was a night with great food & friends.

The Place
If you live in Chicago and enjoy the BYO experience but haven't been to Tango Sur, something is off. Tango Sur is a right of passage; it's like the BYO scene's Bar Mitzvah. In case you do happen to be unfamiliar, both rooms inside are typically crowded and music is played at liberal volumes--the ambient noise is certainly beyond a murmur. But it's not so boisterous as to prevent conversation; it's dark and intimate and loud all at the same time (like the aftermath of visiting The Hang Up). In the Summer the sidewalk is the prime seating and worth waiting for.

The Food
Question: "What can I eat at Tango Sur?" Answer: "Meat." The empenadas & baked cheese are good, but "MEAT" is all the vocabulary necessary for Tango Sur (although there was eggplant ordered & enjoyed amongst our group). The cuts aren't expensive pieces found in many steakhouses & other restaurants but the brines, marinades, and charring bring plenty of flavor & tenderness to the table. A friend said his coworkers always order the Filet or Vesuvio, but I prefer the Lomo Relleno (on the "Specials" menu that hasn't changed in at least 16 months, since I first visited). It's a giant chunk of meat filled with chimichurri and served swimming in a marsala jous. Despite serving mid-grade cuts, I have yet to accompany anyone who was let down by Tango Sur.
Meat this large cannot be photographed in an appealing way, but I'll include an image of some mushrooms & meat on my plate:
Photobucket

The Wine
It's South American food...drink South American wine. Especially if it's Malbec or Syrah, which are well-built for red meats. I can suggest the Zapata Malbec Alamos ($9), Vina Falernia Syrah (my pick this trip, $9 @ Wine Discount Center), or any Monteviejo Malbec ($8-$30). Or ask your wine guy for something with "dark fruit, noticeable tannins, and smokey oak". That'll do ya just fine.

The Result
My group of friends had a great time--multiple loud conversations occurred, plenty of laughter was heard, and multiple bottles of wine were consumed. I worked to split the Lomo Relleno with my roommate, and we still had leftovers...which were left on the table. That was the only disappointment in the evening, and when there are no complaints among a group of 9 I consider the restaurant a great success. If you haven't been to Tango Sur, you must go to rightfully be recognized as a mature BYOB'er. If you haven't been for a while, I suggest you find as many friends as possible and remind yourself of the fun that can come from friends, drinks, and meat. Enjoy!

Wines mentioned in this post:
2006 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Alamos - Argentina, Mendoza (8/27/2008): Nose of dark fruit, some obvious plum, and a good touch of cedar. The taste starts with the dark fruit--plums & dark berries--and ends with a good mix of acidity & spice with just a slight tannic grip that is very smooth. Just medium bodied. Did each thing pretty well and like that it displays multiple flavors. (86 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker

2006 Viña Falernia Syrah Reserva - Chile, Coquimbo, Elqui Valley (1/17/2010)
Decanted an hour. Throughout, this is pretty evident to be from a slightly cooler climate and is quite enjoyable. Nose is of rich dark berry fruits, some earthen tones, and a touch of black woodsmoke. Medium-weight mouthfeel carries in those great, rich dark fruit flavors with hints of smoked herbs. Finishes pretty long, with good balance between fruit, smoke, tannins, and acid.

All in all, a great value and a great food wine. Went perfectly with fare at an Argentenian restaurant. (88 pts.)
2005 Monteviejo (Clos de los Siete) - Argentina, Mendoza (4/26/2009)
Some dark raspberries & other dark berries, a hint of plum, a touch of vanilla, some roasted meat & a nice floral undertone. Little mochaness creeping out too. Palate is mostly dark fruits--berries, plums, etc. with a bit of vanilla & smokey oak hints. Finish is mildly drying with tannins that go on for a while and good smoke, slight oak influences, & fruits. Nice smoothness overpowers the noticeable tannins to create a great texture throughout. Very enjoyable. (91 pts.)

Sunday, January 3, 2010

DMK Burgers

A new burger place opened down the street a few weeks ago. It's not BYO, but there is a reasonably priced beer list (I had the Half Acre Daisy Cutter, $5) & a nice menu of burger and fry options. Here are a few fries (parmesean & truffle, sweet potato, cheddar & green onion). All were good, as was the #11 burger (Lamb with Greek accessories). We had to wait 30 minutes for a table, but enjoyed the overall experience. It's a cool space with friendly waitstaff, so check it out if you're in the mood for a quality $8 burger and great $3 fries.

Sura

As a weeknight / Christmastime treat, I ventured out this Monday and dined at Sura. It's a BYO (few bucks for corkage) on Broadway a block south of Belmont. The menu is perfect for a bottle of slightly sweet wine, which can typically pair with a wide variety of foods—and Sura offers plenty of Thai food & sushi options served with good presentation and a few interesting twists.

The Place
Sura is a little futuristic and struck me as somewhat odd when first entering; the room is almost entirely white, the tables are irregularly shaped, and the chairs & booths are also unique. If this is out of your comfort zone, don’t fret—the initially sterile impression is soon removed by dim lights and tabletop candles. Here are a few pictures of the room…

What can you expect at Sura? A modern, extremely clean layout with details leaning toward futuristic.
From Drop Box

What you don't see in the below picture is the DJ booth—no joke.
From Drop Box

The back quarter of the room is partially divided with an interesting, hole-filled wall (it's more art than wall, really)
From Drop Box


The Food
A quick scan of the menu shows several chili, peanut sauce, and basil dishes typical of Thai cooking. These are mixed with chicken, beef, tofu, or shrimp. Some incorporate other seafood, and Sushi has a large presence here as well (Monday nights are $22 all you can eat Sushi & select appetizers, FYI).

My date and I divided a couple of sushi rolls, an appetizer, and an entree to comprise our meal. The Hulk roll came first, which was very good--just crunchy & warm enough to highlight all that raw, tasty fish.
From Drop Box


Next came the Spicy Scallop roll, served with large scallop chunks & a seaweed wrapper—this was good & went well with the wine. Then the waiter brought our "fritters." These had crab, chicken, and shrimp filling inside of crunchy wonton wrappers. The presentation (below) was slick, and the sauce was an interesting tropical sweet & sour marmalade. Very tasty, and the pairing was absolutely rocking with the juicy sweetness of the wine.
From Drop Box


Finally, our entree was the "Oceanic Basil," which had fish, mushrooms, peppercorns, shrimp, calamari, and basil. It was a typical Thai dish, done pretty well. Recommended, if you want some Thai-style spice & enjoy seafood.

The Wine
I can't recall what bottle of wine I took on my first trip to Sura (nearly a year ago), but Thai food and Thai heat make me reach for a white that is a little off-dry (slightly sweet) to absorb heat, but also shows good flavors to enhance tamer dishes.


Visit a nearby wine shop (try The Gourmet Grape, Binny's, or Kafka) ask for a wine with some of the following components: "off-dry/slightly sweet, floral or fragrant, structured." This could lead to a Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Prosecco, or perhaps a Vouvray Chenin Blanc, all of which will do well with most of the food at Sura. No fear with any of these selections.

While I think it’s more interesting to talk to a shop’s wine expert to pick a bottle, here are some specific suggestions I would like with Sura's menu: Riondo Prosecco ($12), Pichot Vouvray la Moriette ($15), St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Spatlese ($24), Zind Humbrecht Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim ($45).

This night I went with a bottle of off-dry Gewurztraminer. Gewurz may be an unfamiliar grape to some, but trust me that they are easy to enjoy (impress your date by calling out the obvious lychee & nuanced rose scents found in most Gewurz wines). Italy’s Prosecco is probably what I try on my next visit, as it’s typically sweet and often bubbly (bubbles + sushi = sublime pairing).

The Wrap-Up
And what if you're at Sura trying to impress someone and would like to keep a good vibe going after dinner? Hop across the street to Intelligentsia for some coffee drinks. Is there anyone who isn't at least a little romanced by latte art? I think not. (I can also vouch for Paciugo Gelato and Phoebe's Cupcakes as quality, nearby dessert options)
From Drop Box


On the whole? Sura is worth the while, and an especially good value if you use a Restaurant.com coupon (a $25 savings). Lots of dishes pair well with a wide variety of wines, and the good service combines with a unique atmosphere to make for an enjoyable, upbeat, and interesting experience. A lively neighborhood with options for dessert makes it a great date spot. Visit a wine shop, grab a bottle, and head to Sura for a fun night out on a lively section of Broadway. Enjoy!

Wines mentioned:
  • 2006 J. Hofstätter Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol (12/21/2009)
    When first open & chilled, this was a bit muted and the 15% alcohol really bared some ugly teeth. Air and some time in the glass changed this wine quite a bit. My note is from it's better side.

    Very perfumey nose with rosewater, a little honey, obvious melon & lychee, a touch of juicy pear. Quite fragrant and feminine. Tasting brings these feminine flavors, juicy white tropical fruits, and some sweetness. Transition presents adequate acid, good juicy sweetness, and a medium finish that has light white fruit & tropical floral flavors. Nice wine, although it shows some alcohol late in the midpalate & could use a little more acidic backbone.

    I especially enjoyed the full body brought about by the sweetness matched against the great floral tones. This went well with moderately spicy Thai & sushi dishes. (88 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

  • N.V. Riondo Prosecco Veneto IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT (8/25/2008)
    Nice nose driven by citrus & mineral tones. Good texture from the fizz on the palate and nice, acidic citrus zest up front that fleshes out to the finish that gives a kiss of sweet grapefruit. Definitely liked that transition part of the wine. Ok finish. Went great with seafood pasta & cream sauce. (86 pts.)

  • 2007 J. C. Pichot Vouvray Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (1/26/2009)
    Good lemon, grapefruit/tangerine, floral/tropical nose. Very nice, balanced weight in the mouth with a great lemony / juicy citrus taste that bursts into a slightly sweet finish and leaves me wanting more. Bits of mineral tones show up now & then. Just a little more acidity would have made this an outstanding bottle, but as is it's everything I could want from $14. It even went pretty well with sushi. (88 pts.)

  • 2007 St. Urbans-Hof Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (3/20/2009)
    Gorgeous Riesling. Great floral nose, a hint of minerality (think quartz) and plenty of luscious fruit scents--pineapple, pears, mango, peaches, and a bit of green grass hidden underneath all of that. Palate has great juicy weight anchored to pineapple, peach, pear, and mineral flavors. These are then cut by a good lifted acid and the finish brings home floral, mineral, and luscious tropical white / yellow fruit tones. Went great with a basil & duck Thai dish. Absolutely outstanding bottle, looking forward to a couple more bottles in the future. 91-92 (92 pts.)

Maza

I'm hoping to write most posts the day after dining out with fresh impressions & pictures, but it's been a couple of weeks since visiting Maza. I have visited there twice in the past month and have been impressed on both trips, so the account should still be worthwhile. It's a BYO ($8 corkage) Lebanese restaurant on Lincoln Avenue near Diversey. Maza works to have a classy environment, which is marginally (pleasantly) buffered by its homemade feel.

The Food
Lebanese food? I expect plenty of Lamb, warm spices, and some interesting ingredients not so typical in American cooking (lentil, chickpeas, beets, tahini, etc.). Seafood has a significant presence on Maza's menu too, but I've stayed with the red meat on my visits.

On both trips I've had lamb. One night was a special, the other I had "Maza's Signature Entree" served for two. It was outstanding. Lamb with dark spices, served with rice that's stuffed with beef? Perfect. Others with me were pleased by seafood & chicken dishes. I've tried many of the appetizers and think they are all worth nibbling.

The Wine
Most of the red meat at Maza is lamb; some is chicken, and beef has a small presence. Our objective in choosing wine here is to have a bottle that won't overpower the lighter dishes, but still has enough backbone (tannins & acid structure) to work well with beef, if ordered.

I have had 3 wines on my 2 trips...a California Merlot that didn't really work (too dark & big), the Montes Alpha Syrah (good wine, worked great), and a Grenache blend from Cotes du Rousillon in France. In my opinion, the Grenache worked best; but the Syrah was a very enjoyable pairing as well.

Here's my suggestion when visiting nearby WineStyles, Binny's, or Howard's Cellar for a bottle: seek a Syrah from South America (or Northern California), OR something from Southern France (a Grenache or Syrah based blend). If asking a store employee, look for a wine that is "Syrah or Grenache, full-bodied, shows dark red fruit, but is earthy, herbal, or spiced"

Some bottles that would fit here are the Little James Basket Press ($10, Grenache-based Cotes du Rhone), the $16 Montes Alpha Syrah (from Chile), or the $15 Saint-Roch Chimeres (Grenache mostly, from France's Cotes du Rousillon).
Rolling a little deeper? Great fruit & structure can be had for $40 in the Jemrose Syrah (at Binny's, from Cali), or almost any 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape bottling (Grenache-based from France, $30 and up). As a wild card, try pairing with a good Chianti; like the 2006 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva ($25).

The Experience
Both trips here the waiter (also owner & chef I believe) has been friendly (although not quite 'warm') and brought us complimentary soup and/or dessert. He claims to have the best Hummus in the city, but I've yet to try it (next time). This is on Restaurant.com's coupon list, so that helps save $25 during the week. White-linen table cloths & soft music lend a bit of class, and the owner's contact helps create assurance that each diner's experience really matters to the staff. The interesting menu lends itself to multiple wine pairings, so I'm certain Maza will make my regular rotation and I strongly recommend making a visit.

Wines mentioned in this post:
  • 2006 Montes Syrah Alpha - Chile, Central Valley, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley (12/14/2009)
    Profile of dark blue & a bit of dark red fruits. Some vanilla comes up in the nose & mouth occasionally. Plenty of smoke as well. Medium mouthfeel, bit of tannins & acid on the dark fruit & smokey finish. Little interesting mixed pepper elements show up too. (86 pts.)

  • 2003 Havens Wine Cellars Merlot - USA, California, Napa Valley (12/14/2009)
    Throughout this is deep & dark. Plums, blackberries, blueberries. Touch of mintish herb or oak shows up at times. I could imagine this was plush years ago, but it's shed any baby fat that may have existed and now is deep with dark flavors and a pretty long finish. Not extremely complex, but good mix of dark fruits with occasional oak tinges. While big, not at all jammy or fruit bomby. (87 pts.)

  • 2007 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour (11/20/2009)
    This bottle was great. Splashed between decanters a couple of times, drank over the following 2 hours.
    Nose gives dark blueberries, a touch of blackberry, some dark raspberries & cherries as well. But it avoids being a fruity nose thanks to a nice brambly underbrush scent, good herb tone (thyme, sage), and a little bit of pan fond. Touch of smokiness too.

    Tasting brings in a mouthful of flavor that fills the mouth but is not at all bulky. It again carries the fruit well, mixing it with great herb and savory and underbrush tones. The finish has great balance of tannins & acidity lingering long with the dark fruit compote, mineral hints, a woodsmoke touch, hint of spice/pepper, and great length. All through the finish the various savory & fruit flavors ebb and flow.

    I was extremely impressed by the quality here. Great blend of flavors, enjoyable texture, and great interest at every stage. It paired perfectly with a rack of lamb around a rice/shredded beef mixture. Outstanding for sure, 92+ and a screaming value. (92 pts.)


  • 2006 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico (12/2/2009)
    Nose is dark fruited, with hints of tar & floral aromatics...came across slightly rustic. Palate felt very clean & full, with great dark fruits showing themselves nicely around light oak influences. Pretty long finish has plenty of tannin, but on day 2 it started to reveal more dark cherry & potpurri elements. I'd probably call it 88 on day 1, 90 on day 2, and potential to go higher. (89 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker