A couple of weeks before my trip to New York, Shin Thompson of Bon Soiree tweeted that he needed a creative night out for Valentine's Day and would offer up a 5 course dinner for two as reward for the best idea. He liked mine, so it only seemed right to fit it into the week of great meals. We upgraded to 9 courses and set the reservation for a few days after we arrived back in Chicago. After the highlights in New York & with the anticipation of el Bulli at Next (the night after Bon Soiree), we didn't spend a lot of time discussing or building up the night out in Logan Square. In the back of my mind I knew it had a chance to stand shoulder to shoulder with other great meals of the week, but didn't mention that until the cab ride; I wanted us both to come in without expectations (though I'd been a couple of times previously).
The small, clean dining room is always welcoming. Even though the room was less than half full when we arrived, the music & staff gave it an upbeat feel. We picked a table & our waiter came by to open the wine I'd brought (Lallement Champagne & an 08 Rivers-Marie Summa Old Vines Pinot Noir, both were delicious). Courses started coming: "Consumer Advisory" sashimi, a seafood stew, and a wagyu short rib all brought "oh, wow" with their presentations & smiles with their flavor.
Three of the next four courses were plates of multiple components, built from a focus ingredient (shellfish, duck, lamb). The scallop & crab motoyaki, duck roulade with pork belly, and lamb loin were highlights--all were among some of the best dishes of the week--and almost everything was great (one exception: a lamb sausage that was a bit dry). While each plate centered on a single ingredient type, it seemed a bit odd to have both warm and cool pieces on the shellfish plate; similarly, the duck roulade & tongues could have justified separate plates. Shin could have easily stretched this menu to 15+ courses. Not a negative, but at minimum, interesting that so many unique bites were worked into the meal.
The last couple of courses were both fantastic. Cheese with a "candied gooseberry ornament" was a delicious contrast of textures, bitterness, and sweetness. Then came dessert: "8 presentations of chocolate." A perfect, fun plate that took us a bit of time to work through and discuss--it was interactive and educational to compare the various forms & flavors. Chocolate spaghetti was my favorite, but all were delicious & fun.
An incredibly humble Chef Shin came out front to chat with us. He seemed to take little pleasure when we told him that his performance equaled or bettered the New York meals we had recently enjoyed. His only reply was, "those are great restaurants, I'm glad you liked your meal here." That soft-spoken humility belied the confident, creative, well-executed food we had just experienced, but it fit the restaurant's simple decor, BYO beginnings, and off-beat location. Bon Soiree clearly reflects Shin's personality, showcases his wealth of culinary talent, and should be considered among Chicago's best restaurants.
Showing posts with label BYO. Show all posts
Showing posts with label BYO. Show all posts
Tuesday, May 22, 2012
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Ukai: Sushi Space Reinvigorated
A couple of years ago I tried MatsuYama for sushi and was not impressed--I don't recall specifics, but at the time I remember making a mental note to avoid going back. Fast forward a year, and I moved just a block from MastuYama...but still avoided it no matter how strong a sushi craving came. Months later, MatsuYama closed. More months later (late 2010 now) and the space is once again a sushi spot, this time under a new name: Ukai. After driving by it daily for months & reading several good reviews, I ventured in last week to see if this new restaurant could fill the need for a lazy-close (read: walk to it despite single-digit temps) sushi spot.
The Space
Dark toned wood & walls with warm red accents. Nice reeds break up the room a bit. Plenty of candles to make up for low lights. Decent sized sushi bar to seat 8. Warm, clean, with a good vibe & pleasantly simple Asian decor.
The Food
We started with the Tuna Tataki app. Tuna was good, yuzu air was a great touch, and assembly with the dried seaweed salad made for plenty of flavor in each bite. The Sox roll was our first roll. Tuna-based roll with interesting play of flavors. Avoid if you are spice-averse but I thought it was very good; actually had some complexity to it. Then was the Ukai Dynamite, a scallop-based roll. This was also good. Not nearly as spicy as the Sox roll, but also had a touch of warmth. All plates were presented well, delivering to the eyes as well as the taste buds.
The Wine
I grabbed a Riesling when walking out the door. This didn't work out so well; either the Riesling was too dry or the rolls we ordered were too spicy, but the pairing just wasn't great. Next time I'll stick with either bubbly (Extra Dry Cava from Aria would probably work for $10) or beer (Goose Island's Sofie would be perfect). As always with sushi, bubbles help clean the palate of the rice's stickiness & any spice. An Italian Prosecco, which often has some sweetness, could also be worth grabbing. Find something with bubbles, and if it's wine, be sure it has a little residual sugar (especially important if you're into spicy rolls).
The Whole
I was impressed. The place & plates looked great, the sushi was certainly above average, BYOB without corkage, and the bill came in low ($15 each after tax & tip). Living within a 5 minute walk of this place puts it into "dangerous" territory for me. It's nice enough to take a date to before a show, but affordable enough (and with a large enough menu) that I won't hesitate to head back repeatedly, whenever the sushi craving hits.
The Space
Dark toned wood & walls with warm red accents. Nice reeds break up the room a bit. Plenty of candles to make up for low lights. Decent sized sushi bar to seat 8. Warm, clean, with a good vibe & pleasantly simple Asian decor.
The Food
We started with the Tuna Tataki app. Tuna was good, yuzu air was a great touch, and assembly with the dried seaweed salad made for plenty of flavor in each bite. The Sox roll was our first roll. Tuna-based roll with interesting play of flavors. Avoid if you are spice-averse but I thought it was very good; actually had some complexity to it. Then was the Ukai Dynamite, a scallop-based roll. This was also good. Not nearly as spicy as the Sox roll, but also had a touch of warmth. All plates were presented well, delivering to the eyes as well as the taste buds.
The Wine
I grabbed a Riesling when walking out the door. This didn't work out so well; either the Riesling was too dry or the rolls we ordered were too spicy, but the pairing just wasn't great. Next time I'll stick with either bubbly (Extra Dry Cava from Aria would probably work for $10) or beer (Goose Island's Sofie would be perfect). As always with sushi, bubbles help clean the palate of the rice's stickiness & any spice. An Italian Prosecco, which often has some sweetness, could also be worth grabbing. Find something with bubbles, and if it's wine, be sure it has a little residual sugar (especially important if you're into spicy rolls).
The Whole
I was impressed. The place & plates looked great, the sushi was certainly above average, BYOB without corkage, and the bill came in low ($15 each after tax & tip). Living within a 5 minute walk of this place puts it into "dangerous" territory for me. It's nice enough to take a date to before a show, but affordable enough (and with a large enough menu) that I won't hesitate to head back repeatedly, whenever the sushi craving hits.
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Pizza Rustica
To wrap up my holiday break, a friend and I spent last Sunday evening catching a movie & dinner together. I wanted someplace new, with warm food to break through the weather's chill. A bit of searching built my interest in Pizza Rustica. After seeing Black Swan (highly reco'd), we headed a bit north to give this neighborhood Italian place a try.
The Place
Small room near Irving & Sheridan (right across from Tac Quick, a favorite Thai spot) convenient to the Sheridan red line. Tables are arranged for intimacy over efficiency. Kitchen is in view behind the bar. Interesting original art is scattered on the walls. Inviting & warm.
The Food
I was drawn to this place after reading about the quality pizza they serve--so we went straight to that section of the menu. My friend & I split four "slices", which are each a quarter of what Pizza Rustica considers to be a full pizza. Here they are served as rectangles & cut into smaller squares. We stuck with the menu's house pizzas and ordered the Margherita, Verdure Grigliate (veggies), Quattro Stagioni, and Tutta. Here the pizzas are cooked in an electric oven--not quite as authentic as a wood or coal fire piece, but it's hot nevertheless--and achieve the great balance of crispy outside, soft-baked inside that sets the base for delicious pizza. The interior of the crust felt slightly grainy in a very good way...great texture. The sauce was good, as were the toppings, but neither were as impressive as the crust. Overall, a good pizza. My favorites were the Quattro Stagioni and Tutta.
The Wine
Pizza is time-tested with Chianti (from the Sangiovese grape) and beer. What did I take? California Syrah. Why? I knew my friend would like it, and the honest truth is that pizza goes with just about any wine that isn't oak-heavy or jammy (these kind of wines tend to dominate the pizza & don't work with the acid in a tomato sauce). "What to Drink with What you Eat," my go-to reference book for pairing guidance, lists the wide array of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Valpolicella, and Champagne as good pizza pairings (among many others). I'm not sure any other main-course food is as flexible as pizza.
My advice: take something you haven't had before. If you want to geek out, try and notice how the different toppings change the wine--the influence of our Tutta's bleu cheese vs. the Quattro Stagioni's artichokes was noticeable & interesting. Ask the worker at your favorite wine shop for something "off the beaten path, that isn't heavily oaked or over ripe." Bonus points if this leads to an Austrian red, indigenous Italian grapes, or a strange blend from southern France. Of course, it's tough to go wrong with the standard Chianti (I reco anything from Felsina) or beer (avoid hops...stick to pilsners & ambers--like the Great Lakes Elliott Ness).
The Whole
Count me as a fan of Pizza Rustica's good atmosphere, friendly staff, and great pizza. I'm pushing myself to make it to many thin-crust places this Winter, but after that exploration I bet Pizza Rustica keeps a spot in my regular rotation. Added bonus: it's not an expensive meal out. After the bill, tax, & tip we spent ~$18 total for 2. Good food, good price, and flexible wine pairings? Yep, this place is worth visiting--and likely repeating.
Wine I took:
2006 Zaca Mesa Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley (1/2/2011)
Nose of dark red fruits, crushed red cherries, a hint of dried herb, and a noticeable streak of oak (chocolate & currant). Palate is pretty smooth--nice sour cherry, rich dark red fruits, and some spice tones to it. Multiple components, for sure. Decent structure, but it's hardly noticeable behind the dense finish and hint of alcohol. Good length too. (88 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
The Place
Small room near Irving & Sheridan (right across from Tac Quick, a favorite Thai spot) convenient to the Sheridan red line. Tables are arranged for intimacy over efficiency. Kitchen is in view behind the bar. Interesting original art is scattered on the walls. Inviting & warm.
The Food
I was drawn to this place after reading about the quality pizza they serve--so we went straight to that section of the menu. My friend & I split four "slices", which are each a quarter of what Pizza Rustica considers to be a full pizza. Here they are served as rectangles & cut into smaller squares. We stuck with the menu's house pizzas and ordered the Margherita, Verdure Grigliate (veggies), Quattro Stagioni, and Tutta. Here the pizzas are cooked in an electric oven--not quite as authentic as a wood or coal fire piece, but it's hot nevertheless--and achieve the great balance of crispy outside, soft-baked inside that sets the base for delicious pizza. The interior of the crust felt slightly grainy in a very good way...great texture. The sauce was good, as were the toppings, but neither were as impressive as the crust. Overall, a good pizza. My favorites were the Quattro Stagioni and Tutta.
The Wine
Pizza is time-tested with Chianti (from the Sangiovese grape) and beer. What did I take? California Syrah. Why? I knew my friend would like it, and the honest truth is that pizza goes with just about any wine that isn't oak-heavy or jammy (these kind of wines tend to dominate the pizza & don't work with the acid in a tomato sauce). "What to Drink with What you Eat," my go-to reference book for pairing guidance, lists the wide array of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Valpolicella, and Champagne as good pizza pairings (among many others). I'm not sure any other main-course food is as flexible as pizza.
My advice: take something you haven't had before. If you want to geek out, try and notice how the different toppings change the wine--the influence of our Tutta's bleu cheese vs. the Quattro Stagioni's artichokes was noticeable & interesting. Ask the worker at your favorite wine shop for something "off the beaten path, that isn't heavily oaked or over ripe." Bonus points if this leads to an Austrian red, indigenous Italian grapes, or a strange blend from southern France. Of course, it's tough to go wrong with the standard Chianti (I reco anything from Felsina) or beer (avoid hops...stick to pilsners & ambers--like the Great Lakes Elliott Ness).
The Whole
Count me as a fan of Pizza Rustica's good atmosphere, friendly staff, and great pizza. I'm pushing myself to make it to many thin-crust places this Winter, but after that exploration I bet Pizza Rustica keeps a spot in my regular rotation. Added bonus: it's not an expensive meal out. After the bill, tax, & tip we spent ~$18 total for 2. Good food, good price, and flexible wine pairings? Yep, this place is worth visiting--and likely repeating.
Wine I took:
2006 Zaca Mesa Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley (1/2/2011)
Nose of dark red fruits, crushed red cherries, a hint of dried herb, and a noticeable streak of oak (chocolate & currant). Palate is pretty smooth--nice sour cherry, rich dark red fruits, and some spice tones to it. Multiple components, for sure. Decent structure, but it's hardly noticeable behind the dense finish and hint of alcohol. Good length too. (88 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
Monday, September 6, 2010
Machu Picchu, do I like you?
Having spent a while away in California's Sonoma county, one of my wine buddies & I got together to discuss my trip and generally talk wine. He picked Machu Picchu, a Peruvian spot on Ashland just south of Irving Park in Lakeview. We grabbed a few bottles and made our way over for a late Friday lunch.
The Place
Walls have faux-stone blocks painted on them & photo murals of Peru. Light-filled space with a large front window. 2 TVs on low volume played soccer. A bar seating area is in the back. Tables have white cloths topped with white paper. Waitstaff was dressed in white button-down shirts.
The Food
The menu is fairly lengthy, with many dish types available. Most are chicken or beef, but plenty of fish & some veggie options are also listed. We started with a mixed ceviche. This had great, biting lime & cilantro flavors on tender fish, squid, and shrimp. I say this is a must-have appetizer. We each ordered saltado dishes, which were "Peruvian-style stir-fry of meat, onions and tomatoes." I had steak (pictured), he had chicken; both were served with rice & fries. The steak worked with its seasoning better & was a bit more interesting, though the chicken wasn't bad either. I say they're certainly worth ordering, though I may explore other parts of the menu on my next trip. Also of note, the bread was good here. It had tender, slightly chewy crust, a crunchy inside, and was served with a tasty dip (warning: the dip packs some heat).
The Wine
We didn't really think about pairings going in, but things worked out. Starting with a rose' to go with the ceviche proved to be a great pairing. Keith brought a bit of a wine-geek bottle of rose', which was a great for the $20 price tag (note below), but I can imagine most any pink option working well with the ceviches on this menu, and many good roses can be had around or under $15. Bonus points here if it's Argentinian or a Spanish rosado. I could also see Torrontes working great with the ceviche, and quality examples of that grape can be had cheaply (Catena Alamos is <$10 at Binny's).
For main dish wines, we had one Italian Brunello & one Californian blend. Both worked pretty well with the food, but I think Spanish wines would do best. I say look for Tempranillo from the Rioja or Ribera Del Duero regions. A Monastrell (also from Spain) could work well too. Most bottles will have ample supporting structure & spiced oak tones, pairing well with anything from sauteed chicken to grilled steak. They often show bigger fruit, making them enjoyable to sip solo while typically being good food wines too.
The Whole
I do like Machu Picchu: good ceviche, tasty steak, and a menu that works with a broad set of wines is a win in my book. The staff was helpful & didn't mind that we took quite a while for lunch. As a bonus, Restaurant.com has coupons to save money here. The one downside: the decor is unlikely to impress on a first or second date. But, the food & wine options can provide an enjoyable change of pace from the normal routine.
Wines I recommend for Machu Picchu:
1998 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (9/3/2010)
A Friday mishmash (Chicago, IL): This was showing great. Nose has oranges, some other fleshy citrus fruits, hints of acetone, lots of nuttiness--primarily almonds & hazelnuts to my nose. Undertones of crushed red cherries exist as well. The palate comes through great with orange peel and citrus fruits with a touch of candied ginger & some nutty spice. Good slightly oily texture and a long finish showing a nicely balanced acid backbone. Went great with a ceviche dish. (91 pts.)
2005 Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (1/21/2010)
: Decanted an hour, re-corked & drank 90 minutes later. Nose is dark; blackberries with some dark red fruits and a touch of smoked spices. In the mouth this remains dark with a core of blackberries & some red fruits adding interest. Finishes pretty long with dense--but unobtrusive--tannins and tart red & black fruits with a smattering of enjoyably spicy oak tones. (90 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
If you're curious about the wines drank on my visit, click here
The Place
Walls have faux-stone blocks painted on them & photo murals of Peru. Light-filled space with a large front window. 2 TVs on low volume played soccer. A bar seating area is in the back. Tables have white cloths topped with white paper. Waitstaff was dressed in white button-down shirts.
The Food
The menu is fairly lengthy, with many dish types available. Most are chicken or beef, but plenty of fish & some veggie options are also listed. We started with a mixed ceviche. This had great, biting lime & cilantro flavors on tender fish, squid, and shrimp. I say this is a must-have appetizer. We each ordered saltado dishes, which were "Peruvian-style stir-fry of meat, onions and tomatoes." I had steak (pictured), he had chicken; both were served with rice & fries. The steak worked with its seasoning better & was a bit more interesting, though the chicken wasn't bad either. I say they're certainly worth ordering, though I may explore other parts of the menu on my next trip. Also of note, the bread was good here. It had tender, slightly chewy crust, a crunchy inside, and was served with a tasty dip (warning: the dip packs some heat).The Wine
We didn't really think about pairings going in, but things worked out. Starting with a rose' to go with the ceviche proved to be a great pairing. Keith brought a bit of a wine-geek bottle of rose', which was a great for the $20 price tag (note below), but I can imagine most any pink option working well with the ceviches on this menu, and many good roses can be had around or under $15. Bonus points here if it's Argentinian or a Spanish rosado. I could also see Torrontes working great with the ceviche, and quality examples of that grape can be had cheaply (Catena Alamos is <$10 at Binny's).
For main dish wines, we had one Italian Brunello & one Californian blend. Both worked pretty well with the food, but I think Spanish wines would do best. I say look for Tempranillo from the Rioja or Ribera Del Duero regions. A Monastrell (also from Spain) could work well too. Most bottles will have ample supporting structure & spiced oak tones, pairing well with anything from sauteed chicken to grilled steak. They often show bigger fruit, making them enjoyable to sip solo while typically being good food wines too.
The Whole
I do like Machu Picchu: good ceviche, tasty steak, and a menu that works with a broad set of wines is a win in my book. The staff was helpful & didn't mind that we took quite a while for lunch. As a bonus, Restaurant.com has coupons to save money here. The one downside: the decor is unlikely to impress on a first or second date. But, the food & wine options can provide an enjoyable change of pace from the normal routine.
Wines I recommend for Machu Picchu:
1998 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (9/3/2010)
A Friday mishmash (Chicago, IL): This was showing great. Nose has oranges, some other fleshy citrus fruits, hints of acetone, lots of nuttiness--primarily almonds & hazelnuts to my nose. Undertones of crushed red cherries exist as well. The palate comes through great with orange peel and citrus fruits with a touch of candied ginger & some nutty spice. Good slightly oily texture and a long finish showing a nicely balanced acid backbone. Went great with a ceviche dish. (91 pts.)
2005 Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (1/21/2010)
: Decanted an hour, re-corked & drank 90 minutes later. Nose is dark; blackberries with some dark red fruits and a touch of smoked spices. In the mouth this remains dark with a core of blackberries & some red fruits adding interest. Finishes pretty long with dense--but unobtrusive--tannins and tart red & black fruits with a smattering of enjoyably spicy oak tones. (90 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
If you're curious about the wines drank on my visit, click here
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Tac Quick, take 2: "secret" menu edition
This should be considered an addendum to my previous Tac Quick post. A few of my wine folks gathered to explore the menu & pair it against many older Rieslings. This made for a great night.
The Food
From multiple sources, I have seen mention of Tac Quick’s “secret Thai menu,” but never took the opportunity to explore it (somehow, even when taking a date of Thai descent). We changed that on this trip, ordering many items from the “secret” menu that is actually posted and available on the front page of Tac Quick’s website. Our group ordered several dishes, feeding 5 of us family style. Nothing disappointed. Crispy fried pork was a highlight, and river snails (pictured) provided chewy enjoyment to those of us who enjoy eating odd things. Duck with noodles (Kuay Teaw Pet) was also excellent. Once all said & done, I owed only $20 after tax and hearty tip. For my wine group, this low tariff is unheard of--another reason that I am thankful to have Tac Quick within walking distance.
The Wine
Thai food and Riesling is a no-brainer; it‘s like milk & cookies or cheese & crackers--they just work. Find a Riesling with a hint of sweetness & a Thai dish with a little heat and the results will be good. This night brought many older (10+ year old) bottles, most with significant residual sugar, and all were great with the food. I prefer my Riesling a bit on the leaner (less sweet) side and found the Austrian bottlings a bit more enjoyable than the German offerings, but there were no losers on this night. If I began to think a wine was too sweet, I need only to add a bit more sauce to the food & the extra sugar then made perfect sense (yes, wine can give us permission to play with our food).
Ask your local wine salesman for a Riesling with a touch of residual sugar. They will most likely point you to a German bottle with a lot of strange words on it, but just trust it--especially if it says Spatlese (slightly sweet) or Auslese (a bit more sweet). In Chicagoland the best place to start is Wine Discount Center on Elston. There's a good German selection, and over the past 6 months they have had a glut of outstanding Austrian Rieslings at closeout prices (Prager & Hirtzberger being two fantastic producers). Fear not the $11 bottle that was once $45--it’s legitimate and will give a peek into serious Riesling at a price where many wines are seriously lackluster.
The Whole
Go to Tac Quick and take a Riesling. I’ll throw a bone & say that a nice beer (Half Acre Gossamer, Anchor Liberty) would be good too, but I hope you experience the balance between Thai food & Riesling. Tac Quick remains the best Asian cuisine I’ve had in Chicago and I hope you get a chance to explore the “secret” menu alongside a nicely chilled Riesling, as I believe that anyone who does this will have a great dining experience.
2000 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (2/26/2010)
Opened cold, drank over several hours while it warmed & opened.
Nose of soft white peach, apricot, white floral tones, a hint of tangerine, and just a little underlying peach pit & a mineral tone. Up front this brings great, pure white tropical fruits that juicily transition to a finish that fans out with medium acid, full fruit flavors, medium acid, and a thin bit of stoniness. (91 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
The Food
From multiple sources, I have seen mention of Tac Quick’s “secret Thai menu,” but never took the opportunity to explore it (somehow, even when taking a date of Thai descent). We changed that on this trip, ordering many items from the “secret” menu that is actually posted and available on the front page of Tac Quick’s website. Our group ordered several dishes, feeding 5 of us family style. Nothing disappointed. Crispy fried pork was a highlight, and river snails (pictured) provided chewy enjoyment to those of us who enjoy eating odd things. Duck with noodles (Kuay Teaw Pet) was also excellent. Once all said & done, I owed only $20 after tax and hearty tip. For my wine group, this low tariff is unheard of--another reason that I am thankful to have Tac Quick within walking distance.
Thai food and Riesling is a no-brainer; it‘s like milk & cookies or cheese & crackers--they just work. Find a Riesling with a hint of sweetness & a Thai dish with a little heat and the results will be good. This night brought many older (10+ year old) bottles, most with significant residual sugar, and all were great with the food. I prefer my Riesling a bit on the leaner (less sweet) side and found the Austrian bottlings a bit more enjoyable than the German offerings, but there were no losers on this night. If I began to think a wine was too sweet, I need only to add a bit more sauce to the food & the extra sugar then made perfect sense (yes, wine can give us permission to play with our food).
Ask your local wine salesman for a Riesling with a touch of residual sugar. They will most likely point you to a German bottle with a lot of strange words on it, but just trust it--especially if it says Spatlese (slightly sweet) or Auslese (a bit more sweet). In Chicagoland the best place to start is Wine Discount Center on Elston. There's a good German selection, and over the past 6 months they have had a glut of outstanding Austrian Rieslings at closeout prices (Prager & Hirtzberger being two fantastic producers). Fear not the $11 bottle that was once $45--it’s legitimate and will give a peek into serious Riesling at a price where many wines are seriously lackluster.
The Whole
Go to Tac Quick and take a Riesling. I’ll throw a bone & say that a nice beer (Half Acre Gossamer, Anchor Liberty) would be good too, but I hope you experience the balance between Thai food & Riesling. Tac Quick remains the best Asian cuisine I’ve had in Chicago and I hope you get a chance to explore the “secret” menu alongside a nicely chilled Riesling, as I believe that anyone who does this will have a great dining experience.
2000 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (2/26/2010)
Opened cold, drank over several hours while it warmed & opened.
Nose of soft white peach, apricot, white floral tones, a hint of tangerine, and just a little underlying peach pit & a mineral tone. Up front this brings great, pure white tropical fruits that juicily transition to a finish that fans out with medium acid, full fruit flavors, medium acid, and a thin bit of stoniness. (91 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
(k)new
The Start
A friend and I separately saw “Inception” its opening weekend and decided we should see it again, together, to fully understand & discuss its twists (yes, it’s great and you too will want to see it multiple times). Planning to catch our repeat viewing on a Wednesday, I had in mind to visit Sweets & Savories for $10 burger night and walk to the Webster movie theater after. As I didn’t call until that evening, S&S was completely booked. A couple of Google searches for restaurants near the city’s northern theaters showed that (k)new, right around the corner from the theater on Western, offers a $20 three course prix-fixe dinner. Having been to (k)new once and enjoying the food (but I found it expensive that first trip), I decided to give this discounted menu a try.
The Place
As many may know, (k)new is an iteration from chef Omar Rodriquez’s first restaurant, Think. Anyone who visited Think (formerly in Wicker Park) will quickly recognize similar décor in (k)new (located in Logan Square). Medium lighting, light-colored walls, white tablecloths, candles, clean lines, and accents that integrate glass & natural wood. Sunlight filled the front half of the restaurant early in the evening, but after sundown the space began to dim and the feel is comfortably intimate.
The Food
My first trip to (k)new came with wine friends. In typical fashion, we ordered multiple appetizers, large main courses, and many desserts. I recall the appetizers being interesting but slightly disappointing; conservative serving sizes made it difficult to share. The venison rack I had was delicious--as were all desserts--but the price tag outmeasured the dining experience, and it took the $20 special to draw me back (entrees here typically cost $18-$32).
This latest trip kept me to this prix-fixe menu, which includes a soup or salad, any entrée that isn’t lamb/ venison/buffalo, and a choice of two desserts. I had spinach soup (very good, with crème fraiche & a shrimp waiting at the bottom), shrimp & lobster cavatappi (an excellent take on grown up mac & cheese; pictured below), and tried both desserts (I preferred the blood orange crème brulee). We were also given an amuse bouche of tuna ceviche, which was a fun way to wake up the palate. My friend enjoyed her salad & pumpkin-seed crusted fish, and preferred the brownie for dessert.
We both came out fulfilled & pleased with the food, but there was one drawback: service time. We were in the restaurant nearly 2 hours and didn’t make it to the movie. While we didn’t especially mind and didn’t make our time constraints known to the staff, I was surprised at the amount of time spent waiting for each course. Ours could have been a unique experience, but keep this in mind if planning an evening here.
The Wine
As I mentioned, my first trip to (k)new was with a wine group. We tasted through several Barolo wines with age on them. These were great with the red meat dishes we ordered. If planning to dine from the full menu, hearty Nebbiolo (Barolo, Barbaresco, Langhe) is a great choice. Ask your wine merchant for a bottling from a traditional producer, which should give you something with some nice leather and/or floral tones.
The prixe-fix menu is a different story.
The only prixe-fix entrée that calls for red wine is the duck dish; if you plan ahead for duck, bring a Pinot Noir--I recommend a New Zealand bottling if you want to spend <$20, 2008 Washington or 2007 Californian if you can swing >$25.
Otherwise, the prix-fixe menu is white wine territory. In my rush to make reservations, a quick scan of the menu pointed toward Chardonnay as a great choice. I selected one from New Zealand, which honestly was just a decent pairing with the meal. It was vibrant and tropical fruit-forward; I was hoping for something with greater (medium) weight & a gentle touch of oak. Learn from my experience: stick to Californian (or South American, if branching out) Chardonnay here; Calera’s base Chard bottling ($15) is a favorite of mine and would have been outstanding.
The Whole
While the service this night was slow and caused us to miss a second digestion of Inception, the degaustation at (k)new provided a night of interesting food & comfortable conversation (no need to either yell or whisper here; I appreciate being able to use my standard inside voice while dining). The $20 price tag for Wednesday’s prix-fixe menu is one of the best dining values I have come across and is highly recommended. Take a bottle of Chardonnay and prepare for interesting flavors mixed into familiar dishes--(k)new pleases on many fronts, and in a ranking of mid-week dining options, I’m convinced most will place it high on their list.
2008 Craggy Range Chardonnay Single Vineyard Kidnappers Vineyard - New Zealand, North Island, Hawkes Bay (7/21/2010)
This was driven by crisp white peach, some yellow pear, and a bit of canteloupe. It was rather crisp in the spectrum of Chardonnay, finishing vibrantly with good hints of tropical fruit and a bit of minerally verve. Med length finish, decent mouthfeel had some viscosity but didn't have noticeable density.
Part of me wishes this had some more weight to it, but regardless--still a very good wine. (85 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
A friend and I separately saw “Inception” its opening weekend and decided we should see it again, together, to fully understand & discuss its twists (yes, it’s great and you too will want to see it multiple times). Planning to catch our repeat viewing on a Wednesday, I had in mind to visit Sweets & Savories for $10 burger night and walk to the Webster movie theater after. As I didn’t call until that evening, S&S was completely booked. A couple of Google searches for restaurants near the city’s northern theaters showed that (k)new, right around the corner from the theater on Western, offers a $20 three course prix-fixe dinner. Having been to (k)new once and enjoying the food (but I found it expensive that first trip), I decided to give this discounted menu a try.
The Place
As many may know, (k)new is an iteration from chef Omar Rodriquez’s first restaurant, Think. Anyone who visited Think (formerly in Wicker Park) will quickly recognize similar décor in (k)new (located in Logan Square). Medium lighting, light-colored walls, white tablecloths, candles, clean lines, and accents that integrate glass & natural wood. Sunlight filled the front half of the restaurant early in the evening, but after sundown the space began to dim and the feel is comfortably intimate.
The Food
My first trip to (k)new came with wine friends. In typical fashion, we ordered multiple appetizers, large main courses, and many desserts. I recall the appetizers being interesting but slightly disappointing; conservative serving sizes made it difficult to share. The venison rack I had was delicious--as were all desserts--but the price tag outmeasured the dining experience, and it took the $20 special to draw me back (entrees here typically cost $18-$32).
This latest trip kept me to this prix-fixe menu, which includes a soup or salad, any entrée that isn’t lamb/ venison/buffalo, and a choice of two desserts. I had spinach soup (very good, with crème fraiche & a shrimp waiting at the bottom), shrimp & lobster cavatappi (an excellent take on grown up mac & cheese; pictured below), and tried both desserts (I preferred the blood orange crème brulee). We were also given an amuse bouche of tuna ceviche, which was a fun way to wake up the palate. My friend enjoyed her salad & pumpkin-seed crusted fish, and preferred the brownie for dessert.
We both came out fulfilled & pleased with the food, but there was one drawback: service time. We were in the restaurant nearly 2 hours and didn’t make it to the movie. While we didn’t especially mind and didn’t make our time constraints known to the staff, I was surprised at the amount of time spent waiting for each course. Ours could have been a unique experience, but keep this in mind if planning an evening here.
The Wine
As I mentioned, my first trip to (k)new was with a wine group. We tasted through several Barolo wines with age on them. These were great with the red meat dishes we ordered. If planning to dine from the full menu, hearty Nebbiolo (Barolo, Barbaresco, Langhe) is a great choice. Ask your wine merchant for a bottling from a traditional producer, which should give you something with some nice leather and/or floral tones.
The prixe-fix menu is a different story.
The only prixe-fix entrée that calls for red wine is the duck dish; if you plan ahead for duck, bring a Pinot Noir--I recommend a New Zealand bottling if you want to spend <$20, 2008 Washington or 2007 Californian if you can swing >$25.
Otherwise, the prix-fixe menu is white wine territory. In my rush to make reservations, a quick scan of the menu pointed toward Chardonnay as a great choice. I selected one from New Zealand, which honestly was just a decent pairing with the meal. It was vibrant and tropical fruit-forward; I was hoping for something with greater (medium) weight & a gentle touch of oak. Learn from my experience: stick to Californian (or South American, if branching out) Chardonnay here; Calera’s base Chard bottling ($15) is a favorite of mine and would have been outstanding.
The Whole
While the service this night was slow and caused us to miss a second digestion of Inception, the degaustation at (k)new provided a night of interesting food & comfortable conversation (no need to either yell or whisper here; I appreciate being able to use my standard inside voice while dining). The $20 price tag for Wednesday’s prix-fixe menu is one of the best dining values I have come across and is highly recommended. Take a bottle of Chardonnay and prepare for interesting flavors mixed into familiar dishes--(k)new pleases on many fronts, and in a ranking of mid-week dining options, I’m convinced most will place it high on their list.
2008 Craggy Range Chardonnay Single Vineyard Kidnappers Vineyard - New Zealand, North Island, Hawkes Bay (7/21/2010)
This was driven by crisp white peach, some yellow pear, and a bit of canteloupe. It was rather crisp in the spectrum of Chardonnay, finishing vibrantly with good hints of tropical fruit and a bit of minerally verve. Med length finish, decent mouthfeel had some viscosity but didn't have noticeable density.
Part of me wishes this had some more weight to it, but regardless--still a very good wine. (85 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
Monday, May 17, 2010
Mado
Many of my wine drinking friends have given Mado ample praise for its provision of food that is simply prepared yet interesting. With a $40 Groupon waiting to be used, I decided to give it a go on Saturday night. I checked OpenTable.com that afternoon and reserved a table for 2 at 9 PM.
The Look & Feel
Mado stresses simplicity in its farm to table cooking. This dedication is well reflected in the restaurant's interior. Picture a farmhouse or old one room schoolhouse that's been altered to fit in an urban environment. That's Mado's dining room: large natural wood table in the center, hardwood floors & table tops throughout, gritty exposed brick, and artwork that isn't at all imposing or distracting. Add in comfortable chairs to stress the urban setting and it all mixes well. Of note, they didn't actually have wine glasses but instead served into small glass tumblers.
The Food
The menu here is printed daily, based on what's available fresh from farms in surrounding states. Many pieces reflect snout to tail selection--beef heart was available when I I visited and pighead stew is mentioned on the Mado website. While tempted, I stayed relatively middle of the road. Pictured below is the meat charcuterie platter--a country pate, cured thinly sliced pork shoulder, and a pate made from cheeks & jowels. The latter was absolutely outstanding--meaty, dark, heavier than expected, but still very clearly pork. The grainy mustard served with was excellent as well.
As an entree, we had the pork leg raillard. This was grilled & served with faro on the side. The meat was perfectly prepared and full of flavor. I had a side of gorgonzola polenta, which was a bit too salty on its own but was great with the pork. We took a 1/2 pound of "migas bark" to go. This is dark chocolate bark with some tasty/savory add-ins and very very addicting.
Meat Platter.
Wine Time
A more experienced wine buddy of mine suggested that if taking 1 bottle, I take Nebbiolo. This is always a safe bet, but I didn't have any on hand. I ended up taking an older Zinfandel and a Riesling. The Zin went great with the grilled pork, while the bold Riesling was able to stand up to the strong mustard and paired quite well with the meat platter.
I could see Pinot doing ok here, but if buying a red I'd go with a Nebbiolo (look for "Langhe" or "Barolo" or "Barbaresco" on a label of Italian wine) or a Syrah (esp if ordering grilled foods) that hasn't seen much oak--ask the folks at the wine shop, there should be plenty of options in these categories.
If planning to order the meat platter, picking up a dry Riesling from Austria or Australia could be a great option. Or ask a wineshop attendant for a bone dry Riesling from Germany or Alsace if you want to spend a few more dollars.
The Whole
I was impressed and will definitely go back. The food is interesting and well-prepared, pairing well with wine. Knowing the menu changes with the season and that any given piece of an animal can be featured is great; I look forward to a vastly different menu when I head back later this summer. Even in my fairly pedestrian ordering, I encountered some new vegetables & flavors I had not tasted before--always worth bonus points in my book. Take some wine, order daringly, and dig in: I don't see many being disappointed with what Mado brings from the farm to your table.
Wines I had:
The Look & Feel
Mado stresses simplicity in its farm to table cooking. This dedication is well reflected in the restaurant's interior. Picture a farmhouse or old one room schoolhouse that's been altered to fit in an urban environment. That's Mado's dining room: large natural wood table in the center, hardwood floors & table tops throughout, gritty exposed brick, and artwork that isn't at all imposing or distracting. Add in comfortable chairs to stress the urban setting and it all mixes well. Of note, they didn't actually have wine glasses but instead served into small glass tumblers.
The Food
The menu here is printed daily, based on what's available fresh from farms in surrounding states. Many pieces reflect snout to tail selection--beef heart was available when I I visited and pighead stew is mentioned on the Mado website. While tempted, I stayed relatively middle of the road. Pictured below is the meat charcuterie platter--a country pate, cured thinly sliced pork shoulder, and a pate made from cheeks & jowels. The latter was absolutely outstanding--meaty, dark, heavier than expected, but still very clearly pork. The grainy mustard served with was excellent as well.
As an entree, we had the pork leg raillard. This was grilled & served with faro on the side. The meat was perfectly prepared and full of flavor. I had a side of gorgonzola polenta, which was a bit too salty on its own but was great with the pork. We took a 1/2 pound of "migas bark" to go. This is dark chocolate bark with some tasty/savory add-ins and very very addicting.
Meat Platter.
Wine Time
A more experienced wine buddy of mine suggested that if taking 1 bottle, I take Nebbiolo. This is always a safe bet, but I didn't have any on hand. I ended up taking an older Zinfandel and a Riesling. The Zin went great with the grilled pork, while the bold Riesling was able to stand up to the strong mustard and paired quite well with the meat platter.
I could see Pinot doing ok here, but if buying a red I'd go with a Nebbiolo (look for "Langhe" or "Barolo" or "Barbaresco" on a label of Italian wine) or a Syrah (esp if ordering grilled foods) that hasn't seen much oak--ask the folks at the wine shop, there should be plenty of options in these categories.
If planning to order the meat platter, picking up a dry Riesling from Austria or Australia could be a great option. Or ask a wineshop attendant for a bone dry Riesling from Germany or Alsace if you want to spend a few more dollars.
The Whole
I was impressed and will definitely go back. The food is interesting and well-prepared, pairing well with wine. Knowing the menu changes with the season and that any given piece of an animal can be featured is great; I look forward to a vastly different menu when I head back later this summer. Even in my fairly pedestrian ordering, I encountered some new vegetables & flavors I had not tasted before--always worth bonus points in my book. Take some wine, order daringly, and dig in: I don't see many being disappointed with what Mado brings from the farm to your table.
Wines I had:
- 2002 Joseph Swan Vineyards Zinfandel Lone Redwood - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (5/15/2010)
Nose of cedary twigs, dusty red fruits, bits of blackberries, and occasional hints of something in the coffee/bitter chocolate realm of scents. Tasting brings forth dark red strawberries & notable black fruits that still have some juiciness with a coating of dustiness & woody/cedary spices. A touch earthy at times. Transitions to the finish with a pop of tart (pomegranate/unripe raspberry) acidity, little tannin, and slightly clipped length.
This went great with grilled pork leg raillard, having still enough acidity to stand up to the meat & char, which worked well with the earth/spice tones. (88 pts.)
- 2000 Prager Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Hollerin - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (5/15/2010)
Perfumed florals and tropical white fruits present themselves at first, but with time deeper aromas exude--not quite petrol, but a mossy scent comes out that is quite interesting. Hints of white grapefruit in the background give a sense of power. In the mouth this has gorgeous, bold presence; it's the tall beauty pageant contestant winning on determination & class. Rich pineapple, apricot, some citrus hints up front. Back end keeps those going with a well-balanced acid as some mineral, slightly earthen tones flow in beneath the fruit and bits of lemon. Dry. None too heavy, none too delicate, this is a great Riesling.
This was strong enough to do great with grainy, spicy mustard and a few charcuterie options. (90 pts.)
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Tac Quick
I'd been to Tac Quick once before, and this past week when I felt like a decent dinner out it came to mind as a place worth revisiting. I recalled a large menu with interesting specials & well done entrees. It repeated a good performance, giving me a good dinner out for not much cash.
The Place
Tac Quick is just about directly underneath the Sheridan redline stop. Inside is hardwood & nice tables. It feels urban enough and the glass front maintains that city setting with its view. I like the simple decor & felt it a good setting. They also have pretty impressive stemware for wine--always a plus.
The Food
On my first visit, I'd had the fish cakes (can't remember the Thai name--sorry) appetizer & Basil Duck special. Both were very good. This go around we had grilled octopus as an app. The meat was good, and the dipping sauce served with it packed a punch. My date & I split the clay pot noodle dish and both enjoyed it. Big shrimp, plenty of veggies, and tasty noodles. With mild heat, it was a tasty entree. Notably, Grilled Snails were a special of the day that tempted us, but we refrained.
The Wine
Thai food = heat; heat = sweeter wine. On my first trip I took an off-dry German Riesling that did great with my spicy duck & the heated fish cakes. This go around, I brought an Austrian Riesling that was a little too dry to handle the heat of the dipping sauce beside our appetizer, but worked great with the entree.
I'd look for an off-dry German Riesling here. Urbans-Hoff bottlings are a widely available, affordable option that I can recommend. Stepping up to Zindt-Humbrecht can give a higher-end option worth the extra bucks. Or, ask your wine merchant for a German Riesling with some residual sugar, but not more than medium sweetness. They'll probably hand you something with "Auslese" or "Spatlese" on the label--this means it has noticeable sweetness, which in our case means it will pair great with Thai heat.
The Sum
Tac Quick is great affordable Thai food with interesting specials and they do a great job covering the basics. Try out a special or give your favorite Thai dish a try here and my experiences tell me it won't disappoint. $2 corkage is reasonable and it's a great place to showcase a tasty Riesling. Worth the trip, which is an easy one if you're taking the redline, and worth the few bucks for a good atmosphere & enjoyable dinner.
The Place
Tac Quick is just about directly underneath the Sheridan redline stop. Inside is hardwood & nice tables. It feels urban enough and the glass front maintains that city setting with its view. I like the simple decor & felt it a good setting. They also have pretty impressive stemware for wine--always a plus.
The Food
On my first visit, I'd had the fish cakes (can't remember the Thai name--sorry) appetizer & Basil Duck special. Both were very good. This go around we had grilled octopus as an app. The meat was good, and the dipping sauce served with it packed a punch. My date & I split the clay pot noodle dish and both enjoyed it. Big shrimp, plenty of veggies, and tasty noodles. With mild heat, it was a tasty entree. Notably, Grilled Snails were a special of the day that tempted us, but we refrained.
The Wine
Thai food = heat; heat = sweeter wine. On my first trip I took an off-dry German Riesling that did great with my spicy duck & the heated fish cakes. This go around, I brought an Austrian Riesling that was a little too dry to handle the heat of the dipping sauce beside our appetizer, but worked great with the entree.
I'd look for an off-dry German Riesling here. Urbans-Hoff bottlings are a widely available, affordable option that I can recommend. Stepping up to Zindt-Humbrecht can give a higher-end option worth the extra bucks. Or, ask your wine merchant for a German Riesling with some residual sugar, but not more than medium sweetness. They'll probably hand you something with "Auslese" or "Spatlese" on the label--this means it has noticeable sweetness, which in our case means it will pair great with Thai heat.
The Sum
Tac Quick is great affordable Thai food with interesting specials and they do a great job covering the basics. Try out a special or give your favorite Thai dish a try here and my experiences tell me it won't disappoint. $2 corkage is reasonable and it's a great place to showcase a tasty Riesling. Worth the trip, which is an easy one if you're taking the redline, and worth the few bucks for a good atmosphere & enjoyable dinner.
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Cafe Lucci
North of the city in Glenview lies Cafe Lucci. I have dined here several times now, for both business & pleasure. The restaurant actually has a great wine list but also allows patrons to BYO. 6 days a week corkage is rather expensive--I believe $25--but on Mondays there is no corking fee. My visit was on a Monday after work.
The Place
First, being in the suburbs affords the luxury of an ample parking lot and a complimentary valet is offered. Inside, the restaurant provides a feel that is certainly classy and inviting. White table cloths, some booth seating, rich wood, etc. etc. It's a good atmosphere.
The Food
I have been pleased with the fresh, comforting, Italian fare each visit here. This time I had the duck ragu with pasta; excellent. My date had a veal dish with mozzarella and tomato puree--it was also delicious. I have previously enjoyed both steak and seafood here quite a bit, too. In my experience, the specials & waiter's suggestions are worth listening to. Desserts are worthwhile here, with the Fantasia being a classic I've enjoyed a few times. It's a chocolate egg fill with a bit of cake, berries, and a little cream & raspberry sauce. Pictured below with a birthday candle.
The Wine
First, let it be known that Cafe Lucci's great wine program extends to their service and glassware. They decant, have multiple glass shapes, and generally just know how to treat wine.
Per actual wine, I took a young Barbaresco. Another time dining here we enjoyed various grape varieties, but it's hard to recommend anything away from the Nebbiolo grape. Langhe, Barbaresco, Barolo are key regions to look for. I've had a couple of Chiantis here that did work with a steak course, but Nebbiolo's acidity makes it work great with anything from a creamy seafood dish up to richly acidic tomato sauces on braised meats. Both the duck ragu and veal dishes enjoyed last week paired beautifully to the Barbaresco.
The Sum
This is a great restaurant. The help is knowledgeable and refreshingly, well, helpful! If you're lucky the loquacious owner Bobby will be around and visit your table--very friendly guy. Excellent wine service could actually justify bringing a special bottle in and paying the high corkage, but if such a large sum irks you then there are plenty of good bottles on the wine list and there are Mondays with no corkage. Talk to your server, find what they like, sit back & enjoy the comforting Italian experience of Cafe Lucci.
2005 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Torre - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (3/22/2010)
Nose of some rustic earthen tones, great soft floral/violet scents, and some rich red & dark cherries. Tasting brings in those earthy tones with clear, fresh cherry wrapped in a layer of vibrant acidity. Finishes with pulling tannins and strong acid, which slightly cover the flavors here (popped & poured, drank over 2.5 hours) but there is some length to all the elements. Certainly very good now, but there's more waiting down the road. 87-88 with plenty of upside.
Went great with duck ragu pasta (88 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
The Place
First, being in the suburbs affords the luxury of an ample parking lot and a complimentary valet is offered. Inside, the restaurant provides a feel that is certainly classy and inviting. White table cloths, some booth seating, rich wood, etc. etc. It's a good atmosphere.
The Food
I have been pleased with the fresh, comforting, Italian fare each visit here. This time I had the duck ragu with pasta; excellent. My date had a veal dish with mozzarella and tomato puree--it was also delicious. I have previously enjoyed both steak and seafood here quite a bit, too. In my experience, the specials & waiter's suggestions are worth listening to. Desserts are worthwhile here, with the Fantasia being a classic I've enjoyed a few times. It's a chocolate egg fill with a bit of cake, berries, and a little cream & raspberry sauce. Pictured below with a birthday candle.
 |
| From Drop Box |
The Wine
First, let it be known that Cafe Lucci's great wine program extends to their service and glassware. They decant, have multiple glass shapes, and generally just know how to treat wine.
Per actual wine, I took a young Barbaresco. Another time dining here we enjoyed various grape varieties, but it's hard to recommend anything away from the Nebbiolo grape. Langhe, Barbaresco, Barolo are key regions to look for. I've had a couple of Chiantis here that did work with a steak course, but Nebbiolo's acidity makes it work great with anything from a creamy seafood dish up to richly acidic tomato sauces on braised meats. Both the duck ragu and veal dishes enjoyed last week paired beautifully to the Barbaresco.
The Sum
This is a great restaurant. The help is knowledgeable and refreshingly, well, helpful! If you're lucky the loquacious owner Bobby will be around and visit your table--very friendly guy. Excellent wine service could actually justify bringing a special bottle in and paying the high corkage, but if such a large sum irks you then there are plenty of good bottles on the wine list and there are Mondays with no corkage. Talk to your server, find what they like, sit back & enjoy the comforting Italian experience of Cafe Lucci.
2005 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Torre - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (3/22/2010)
Nose of some rustic earthen tones, great soft floral/violet scents, and some rich red & dark cherries. Tasting brings in those earthy tones with clear, fresh cherry wrapped in a layer of vibrant acidity. Finishes with pulling tannins and strong acid, which slightly cover the flavors here (popped & poured, drank over 2.5 hours) but there is some length to all the elements. Certainly very good now, but there's more waiting down the road. 87-88 with plenty of upside.
Went great with duck ragu pasta (88 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Yuki Hana
On Friday night I felt like sushi. Hmmm...Restaurant.com lists a Yuki Hana coupon for $25 off of $45. When I visited a few months back the spicy rolls dominated my wine selection and the sushi wasn't overly inspiring. I took this visit as a chance to try a better fit of wine & order rolls that weren't dominated by heat--a second chance for Yuki Hana.
The Place
...is not much to look at. It occupies a small space on Clark street. Inside, it's filled with typical Asiany decorations--nothing remarkable, really, but at least it's an adequate space.
The Food
As mentioned earlier, take heed that the spicy rolls are pretty spicy. This trip I aimed to avoid exorbitant heat. Miso soup and edamame weren't bad; Yuki Hana checked the box with those. We ordered a Tuna/Avocado roll and a roll with eel, avocado, and cucumber. Both were plated nicely (sorry, forgot pics this time) and pretty tasty. We also ordered the spicy scallop entree, which was good but not great. Mochi ice cream was good, but $2.50 per piece surprised us when the bill came. Overall, the food is good but nothing is memorable as creative or outstanding.
The Wine
I took along a bottle of Cava that, while not as sweet as I had expected, went pretty well with the food. As mentioned in my Sura post, sushi=bubbles and spicy food=sweeter wine. Try a Cava for good value drier bubbles (Seguras Aria, Cristalino are good budget choices) or Prosecco for if you plan to order spicy food (Riondo is my go-to cheapie here). I wouldn't be afraid of a demi-sec Vouvray either. Ask your wineshop worker for something "slightly sweet and lighter bodied. Bonus points if it has bubbles."
The Whole
Yuki Hana serves up pretty good food & sushi (although the spicy rolls are overdone, IMO--maybe try one but they were not to my taste). The service is good, fish wasn't bad, and while menu items aren't overly creative all the standards are here. The bill surprised us a little bit; even after the $25 coupon ours was $33 before tip (damn you Mochi). I probably would have been happier spending $33 elsewhere and would certainly say to skip this place if paying full price. Yuki Hana did not deliver on this 2nd chance opportunity, and will likely not get a 3rd from me.
Friday's bubbly, a Cava:
N.V. Segura Viudas Cava Aria Brut - Spain, Catalunya, Cava (2/19/2010)
Nose of apricot, white pear, and citrus-basted toasted nuts. Good fleshy white fruits lead to a citrus, nutty, clean finish with nice length.
Had the Extra Dry last weekend and believe they are both excellent. These set the standard for value in wine buying. (88 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
The Place
...is not much to look at. It occupies a small space on Clark street. Inside, it's filled with typical Asiany decorations--nothing remarkable, really, but at least it's an adequate space.
The Food
As mentioned earlier, take heed that the spicy rolls are pretty spicy. This trip I aimed to avoid exorbitant heat. Miso soup and edamame weren't bad; Yuki Hana checked the box with those. We ordered a Tuna/Avocado roll and a roll with eel, avocado, and cucumber. Both were plated nicely (sorry, forgot pics this time) and pretty tasty. We also ordered the spicy scallop entree, which was good but not great. Mochi ice cream was good, but $2.50 per piece surprised us when the bill came. Overall, the food is good but nothing is memorable as creative or outstanding.
The Wine
I took along a bottle of Cava that, while not as sweet as I had expected, went pretty well with the food. As mentioned in my Sura post, sushi=bubbles and spicy food=sweeter wine. Try a Cava for good value drier bubbles (Seguras Aria, Cristalino are good budget choices) or Prosecco for if you plan to order spicy food (Riondo is my go-to cheapie here). I wouldn't be afraid of a demi-sec Vouvray either. Ask your wineshop worker for something "slightly sweet and lighter bodied. Bonus points if it has bubbles."
The Whole
Yuki Hana serves up pretty good food & sushi (although the spicy rolls are overdone, IMO--maybe try one but they were not to my taste). The service is good, fish wasn't bad, and while menu items aren't overly creative all the standards are here. The bill surprised us a little bit; even after the $25 coupon ours was $33 before tip (damn you Mochi). I probably would have been happier spending $33 elsewhere and would certainly say to skip this place if paying full price. Yuki Hana did not deliver on this 2nd chance opportunity, and will likely not get a 3rd from me.
Friday's bubbly, a Cava:
N.V. Segura Viudas Cava Aria Brut - Spain, Catalunya, Cava (2/19/2010)
Nose of apricot, white pear, and citrus-basted toasted nuts. Good fleshy white fruits lead to a citrus, nutty, clean finish with nice length.
Had the Extra Dry last weekend and believe they are both excellent. These set the standard for value in wine buying. (88 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
HB Home Bistro
When a friend reached out for restaurant locations to hold a wine dinner, Home Bistro was at the top of my list. The menu changes frequently to focus on seasonal ingredients & recipes and the atmosphere is cozy and vibrant. It is a great spot for a small group or for a dinner leaning toward romantic. This was my third trip to Home Bistro and I have always walked away impressed.
The Place
Located in a small space right in the heart of Boystown, HB could easily feel hectic or cramped but it avoids any negatives potentially caused by the bustling location and limited footage. Soft yellow walls, warm wood tones, and candle light certainly help. Normally I wouldn't recommend for a group of more than 4 (and I'd even call in a reso for 2 on the weekends) but my party visited on a Thursday night. This afforded us a large table in the back corner and a few hours to enjoy dinner without feeling pressured.
The Food
HB serves up Modern American fare, often with an interesting variety of proteins. My first two trips I had veal osso bucco & a rabbit stew--both perfectly cooked & in interesting preparations--and on this trip I had spiced lamb sausage.
Here are a few thoughts for the best experience:
--Always listen to the specials; they're often well-inspired creations.
--Get an appetizer and/or dessert. These are usually traditional dishes with interesting twists worth the tariff.
--Converse with the waiter. He knows what he's talking about and gives an honest opinion. He's also open to discussing alterations; this has resulted in once getting a small sample of truffle oiled fries & another time receiving 3 small servings of bread pudding for dessert instead of experiencing just a single flavor (they were all perfection in gooey form).
My recent lamb sausage on white beans:
The Wine
Dark tones (brown sugar, cinnamon, woody herbs) and braising/roasting are present in many dishes here. For a red wine, I'd suggest a California Pinot Noir or Italian Barbaresco. Ask at nearby Kafka or Gourmet Grape for a "medium bodied wine with rich dark red flavors and tight/focused structure." The food is friendly to all kinds of wine so don't be afraid to take any bottle you're in the mood for, but Cali Pinot is where I would lean.
On the white side, the preparations are a bit more varied--I'd go toward a bubbly for its flexibility or a crisp white Rhone blend (the latter worked well for me in October).
The End
Interesting selections of meat well-prepared with interesting complimentary flavors--I'm in! This is in my rotation to visit every few months as I know I will find a creative dish perfectly suited to the season & my craving. The chef and staff are always knowledgeable & friendly (they were extremely accommodating of our large, slow-moving group with 15 bottles). I highly recommend a visit to check out the plenty of good opportunities to explore on Home Bistro's menu. Enter with a willingness to try something new or unique and I'm sure you will enjoy what you find.
Wines I enjoyed at HB a few months back:
2007 Phillips Hill Pinot Noir Oppenlander Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County (10/30/2009)
Nose has a bit of earth behind raspberries & other dark red fruits. These carry onto the palate, which has good weight but not quite the typical Pinot structure I expect...not bad, just unexpected. Finishes with dark red fruits, comfortable acidity, and some vibrant baking spices. Finish shows great length to it.
Good mix of flavors in a weighty package. Only had this open 30 minutes before drinking (no decant) and I suspect more time will serve it well. All the pieces are there, but currently its weight denies it from showing nuances or layers. Regardless, a great bottle that managed to pair well with a braised rabbit dish. (90 pts.)
2008 Coume del Mas Côtes du Roussillon Cristine - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon (10/30/2009)
Pretty nose of flowers, white peach, fresh herbs and a backdrop of other white fruits as well. Hits the mouth with great density, a viscous / silky texture, and lots of good white fruit & flowers. A touch of green herb or grass shows in there too, beneath all the other flavors. Smooth transition to a finish that has great length and adds a touch of salinity & proper acidity. Honey flavors show up as well (but not sweetness). Very pretty, great length, intriguing mix of flavors throughout. "It is an equal part blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Macabeu and Grenache Gris(92 pts.)
The Place
Located in a small space right in the heart of Boystown, HB could easily feel hectic or cramped but it avoids any negatives potentially caused by the bustling location and limited footage. Soft yellow walls, warm wood tones, and candle light certainly help. Normally I wouldn't recommend for a group of more than 4 (and I'd even call in a reso for 2 on the weekends) but my party visited on a Thursday night. This afforded us a large table in the back corner and a few hours to enjoy dinner without feeling pressured.
The Food
HB serves up Modern American fare, often with an interesting variety of proteins. My first two trips I had veal osso bucco & a rabbit stew--both perfectly cooked & in interesting preparations--and on this trip I had spiced lamb sausage.
Here are a few thoughts for the best experience:
--Always listen to the specials; they're often well-inspired creations.
--Get an appetizer and/or dessert. These are usually traditional dishes with interesting twists worth the tariff.
--Converse with the waiter. He knows what he's talking about and gives an honest opinion. He's also open to discussing alterations; this has resulted in once getting a small sample of truffle oiled fries & another time receiving 3 small servings of bread pudding for dessert instead of experiencing just a single flavor (they were all perfection in gooey form).
My recent lamb sausage on white beans:
The Wine
Dark tones (brown sugar, cinnamon, woody herbs) and braising/roasting are present in many dishes here. For a red wine, I'd suggest a California Pinot Noir or Italian Barbaresco. Ask at nearby Kafka or Gourmet Grape for a "medium bodied wine with rich dark red flavors and tight/focused structure." The food is friendly to all kinds of wine so don't be afraid to take any bottle you're in the mood for, but Cali Pinot is where I would lean.
On the white side, the preparations are a bit more varied--I'd go toward a bubbly for its flexibility or a crisp white Rhone blend (the latter worked well for me in October).
The End
Interesting selections of meat well-prepared with interesting complimentary flavors--I'm in! This is in my rotation to visit every few months as I know I will find a creative dish perfectly suited to the season & my craving. The chef and staff are always knowledgeable & friendly (they were extremely accommodating of our large, slow-moving group with 15 bottles). I highly recommend a visit to check out the plenty of good opportunities to explore on Home Bistro's menu. Enter with a willingness to try something new or unique and I'm sure you will enjoy what you find.
Wines I enjoyed at HB a few months back:
2007 Phillips Hill Pinot Noir Oppenlander Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County (10/30/2009)
Nose has a bit of earth behind raspberries & other dark red fruits. These carry onto the palate, which has good weight but not quite the typical Pinot structure I expect...not bad, just unexpected. Finishes with dark red fruits, comfortable acidity, and some vibrant baking spices. Finish shows great length to it.
Good mix of flavors in a weighty package. Only had this open 30 minutes before drinking (no decant) and I suspect more time will serve it well. All the pieces are there, but currently its weight denies it from showing nuances or layers. Regardless, a great bottle that managed to pair well with a braised rabbit dish. (90 pts.)
2008 Coume del Mas Côtes du Roussillon Cristine - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon (10/30/2009)
Pretty nose of flowers, white peach, fresh herbs and a backdrop of other white fruits as well. Hits the mouth with great density, a viscous / silky texture, and lots of good white fruit & flowers. A touch of green herb or grass shows in there too, beneath all the other flavors. Smooth transition to a finish that has great length and adds a touch of salinity & proper acidity. Honey flavors show up as well (but not sweetness). Very pretty, great length, intriguing mix of flavors throughout. "It is an equal part blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Macabeu and Grenache Gris(92 pts.)
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
Tango Sur
3 friends & I often get together for dinner on Sunday evenings. This past go 'round, we expanded our group to 9. With a big group of friends likely to be a little loud, Tango Sur provided the ideal match of atmosphere, affordability, and huge chunks of meat. Of course the BYO option is a positive as well. I felt fortunate to procure a reservation for nine at 7 o'clock, and what followed was a night with great food & friends.
The Place
If you live in Chicago and enjoy the BYO experience but haven't been to Tango Sur, something is off. Tango Sur is a right of passage; it's like the BYO scene's Bar Mitzvah. In case you do happen to be unfamiliar, both rooms inside are typically crowded and music is played at liberal volumes--the ambient noise is certainly beyond a murmur. But it's not so boisterous as to prevent conversation; it's dark and intimate and loud all at the same time (like the aftermath of visiting The Hang Up). In the Summer the sidewalk is the prime seating and worth waiting for.
The Food
Question: "What can I eat at Tango Sur?" Answer: "Meat." The empenadas & baked cheese are good, but "MEAT" is all the vocabulary necessary for Tango Sur (although there was eggplant ordered & enjoyed amongst our group). The cuts aren't expensive pieces found in many steakhouses & other restaurants but the brines, marinades, and charring bring plenty of flavor & tenderness to the table. A friend said his coworkers always order the Filet or Vesuvio, but I prefer the Lomo Relleno (on the "Specials" menu that hasn't changed in at least 16 months, since I first visited). It's a giant chunk of meat filled with chimichurri and served swimming in a marsala jous. Despite serving mid-grade cuts, I have yet to accompany anyone who was let down by Tango Sur.
Meat this large cannot be photographed in an appealing way, but I'll include an image of some mushrooms & meat on my plate:
The Wine
It's South American food...drink South American wine. Especially if it's Malbec or Syrah, which are well-built for red meats. I can suggest the Zapata Malbec Alamos ($9), Vina Falernia Syrah (my pick this trip, $9 @ Wine Discount Center), or any Monteviejo Malbec ($8-$30). Or ask your wine guy for something with "dark fruit, noticeable tannins, and smokey oak". That'll do ya just fine.
The Result
My group of friends had a great time--multiple loud conversations occurred, plenty of laughter was heard, and multiple bottles of wine were consumed. I worked to split the Lomo Relleno with my roommate, and we still had leftovers...which were left on the table. That was the only disappointment in the evening, and when there are no complaints among a group of 9 I consider the restaurant a great success. If you haven't been to Tango Sur, you must go to rightfully be recognized as a mature BYOB'er. If you haven't been for a while, I suggest you find as many friends as possible and remind yourself of the fun that can come from friends, drinks, and meat. Enjoy!
Wines mentioned in this post:
2006 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Alamos - Argentina, Mendoza (8/27/2008): Nose of dark fruit, some obvious plum, and a good touch of cedar. The taste starts with the dark fruit--plums & dark berries--and ends with a good mix of acidity & spice with just a slight tannic grip that is very smooth. Just medium bodied. Did each thing pretty well and like that it displays multiple flavors. (86 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
2006 Viña Falernia Syrah Reserva - Chile, Coquimbo, Elqui Valley (1/17/2010)
Decanted an hour. Throughout, this is pretty evident to be from a slightly cooler climate and is quite enjoyable. Nose is of rich dark berry fruits, some earthen tones, and a touch of black woodsmoke. Medium-weight mouthfeel carries in those great, rich dark fruit flavors with hints of smoked herbs. Finishes pretty long, with good balance between fruit, smoke, tannins, and acid.
All in all, a great value and a great food wine. Went perfectly with fare at an Argentenian restaurant. (88 pts.)
2005 Monteviejo (Clos de los Siete) - Argentina, Mendoza (4/26/2009)
Some dark raspberries & other dark berries, a hint of plum, a touch of vanilla, some roasted meat & a nice floral undertone. Little mochaness creeping out too. Palate is mostly dark fruits--berries, plums, etc. with a bit of vanilla & smokey oak hints. Finish is mildly drying with tannins that go on for a while and good smoke, slight oak influences, & fruits. Nice smoothness overpowers the noticeable tannins to create a great texture throughout. Very enjoyable. (91 pts.)
The Place
If you live in Chicago and enjoy the BYO experience but haven't been to Tango Sur, something is off. Tango Sur is a right of passage; it's like the BYO scene's Bar Mitzvah. In case you do happen to be unfamiliar, both rooms inside are typically crowded and music is played at liberal volumes--the ambient noise is certainly beyond a murmur. But it's not so boisterous as to prevent conversation; it's dark and intimate and loud all at the same time (like the aftermath of visiting The Hang Up). In the Summer the sidewalk is the prime seating and worth waiting for.
The Food
Question: "What can I eat at Tango Sur?" Answer: "Meat." The empenadas & baked cheese are good, but "MEAT" is all the vocabulary necessary for Tango Sur (although there was eggplant ordered & enjoyed amongst our group). The cuts aren't expensive pieces found in many steakhouses & other restaurants but the brines, marinades, and charring bring plenty of flavor & tenderness to the table. A friend said his coworkers always order the Filet or Vesuvio, but I prefer the Lomo Relleno (on the "Specials" menu that hasn't changed in at least 16 months, since I first visited). It's a giant chunk of meat filled with chimichurri and served swimming in a marsala jous. Despite serving mid-grade cuts, I have yet to accompany anyone who was let down by Tango Sur.
Meat this large cannot be photographed in an appealing way, but I'll include an image of some mushrooms & meat on my plate:
The Wine
It's South American food...drink South American wine. Especially if it's Malbec or Syrah, which are well-built for red meats. I can suggest the Zapata Malbec Alamos ($9), Vina Falernia Syrah (my pick this trip, $9 @ Wine Discount Center), or any Monteviejo Malbec ($8-$30). Or ask your wine guy for something with "dark fruit, noticeable tannins, and smokey oak". That'll do ya just fine.
The Result
My group of friends had a great time--multiple loud conversations occurred, plenty of laughter was heard, and multiple bottles of wine were consumed. I worked to split the Lomo Relleno with my roommate, and we still had leftovers...which were left on the table. That was the only disappointment in the evening, and when there are no complaints among a group of 9 I consider the restaurant a great success. If you haven't been to Tango Sur, you must go to rightfully be recognized as a mature BYOB'er. If you haven't been for a while, I suggest you find as many friends as possible and remind yourself of the fun that can come from friends, drinks, and meat. Enjoy!
Wines mentioned in this post:
2006 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Alamos - Argentina, Mendoza (8/27/2008): Nose of dark fruit, some obvious plum, and a good touch of cedar. The taste starts with the dark fruit--plums & dark berries--and ends with a good mix of acidity & spice with just a slight tannic grip that is very smooth. Just medium bodied. Did each thing pretty well and like that it displays multiple flavors. (86 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
2006 Viña Falernia Syrah Reserva - Chile, Coquimbo, Elqui Valley (1/17/2010)
Decanted an hour. Throughout, this is pretty evident to be from a slightly cooler climate and is quite enjoyable. Nose is of rich dark berry fruits, some earthen tones, and a touch of black woodsmoke. Medium-weight mouthfeel carries in those great, rich dark fruit flavors with hints of smoked herbs. Finishes pretty long, with good balance between fruit, smoke, tannins, and acid.
All in all, a great value and a great food wine. Went perfectly with fare at an Argentenian restaurant. (88 pts.)
2005 Monteviejo (Clos de los Siete) - Argentina, Mendoza (4/26/2009)
Some dark raspberries & other dark berries, a hint of plum, a touch of vanilla, some roasted meat & a nice floral undertone. Little mochaness creeping out too. Palate is mostly dark fruits--berries, plums, etc. with a bit of vanilla & smokey oak hints. Finish is mildly drying with tannins that go on for a while and good smoke, slight oak influences, & fruits. Nice smoothness overpowers the noticeable tannins to create a great texture throughout. Very enjoyable. (91 pts.)
Sunday, January 3, 2010
Sura
As a weeknight / Christmastime treat, I ventured out this Monday and dined at Sura. It's a BYO (few bucks for corkage) on Broadway a block south of Belmont. The menu is perfect for a bottle of slightly sweet wine, which can typically pair with a wide variety of foods—and Sura offers plenty of Thai food & sushi options served with good presentation and a few interesting twists.
The Place
Sura is a little futuristic and struck me as somewhat odd when first entering; the room is almost entirely white, the tables are irregularly shaped, and the chairs & booths are also unique. If this is out of your comfort zone, don’t fret—the initially sterile impression is soon removed by dim lights and tabletop candles. Here are a few pictures of the room…
What can you expect at Sura? A modern, extremely clean layout with details leaning toward futuristic.
What you don't see in the below picture is the DJ booth—no joke.
The back quarter of the room is partially divided with an interesting, hole-filled wall (it's more art than wall, really)
The Food
A quick scan of the menu shows several chili, peanut sauce, and basil dishes typical of Thai cooking. These are mixed with chicken, beef, tofu, or shrimp. Some incorporate other seafood, and Sushi has a large presence here as well (Monday nights are $22 all you can eat Sushi & select appetizers, FYI).
My date and I divided a couple of sushi rolls, an appetizer, and an entree to comprise our meal. The Hulk roll came first, which was very good--just crunchy & warm enough to highlight all that raw, tasty fish.
Next came the Spicy Scallop roll, served with large scallop chunks & a seaweed wrapper—this was good & went well with the wine. Then the waiter brought our "fritters." These had crab, chicken, and shrimp filling inside of crunchy wonton wrappers. The presentation (below) was slick, and the sauce was an interesting tropical sweet & sour marmalade. Very tasty, and the pairing was absolutely rocking with the juicy sweetness of the wine.
Finally, our entree was the "Oceanic Basil," which had fish, mushrooms, peppercorns, shrimp, calamari, and basil. It was a typical Thai dish, done pretty well. Recommended, if you want some Thai-style spice & enjoy seafood.
The Wine
I can't recall what bottle of wine I took on my first trip to Sura (nearly a year ago), but Thai food and Thai heat make me reach for a white that is a little off-dry (slightly sweet) to absorb heat, but also shows good flavors to enhance tamer dishes.
Visit a nearby wine shop (try The Gourmet Grape, Binny's, or Kafka) ask for a wine with some of the following components: "off-dry/slightly sweet, floral or fragrant, structured." This could lead to a Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Prosecco, or perhaps a Vouvray Chenin Blanc, all of which will do well with most of the food at Sura. No fear with any of these selections.
While I think it’s more interesting to talk to a shop’s wine expert to pick a bottle, here are some specific suggestions I would like with Sura's menu: Riondo Prosecco ($12), Pichot Vouvray la Moriette ($15), St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Spatlese ($24), Zind Humbrecht Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim ($45).
This night I went with a bottle of off-dry Gewurztraminer. Gewurz may be an unfamiliar grape to some, but trust me that they are easy to enjoy (impress your date by calling out the obvious lychee & nuanced rose scents found in most Gewurz wines). Italy’s Prosecco is probably what I try on my next visit, as it’s typically sweet and often bubbly (bubbles + sushi = sublime pairing).
The Wrap-Up
And what if you're at Sura trying to impress someone and would like to keep a good vibe going after dinner? Hop across the street to Intelligentsia for some coffee drinks. Is there anyone who isn't at least a little romanced by latte art? I think not. (I can also vouch for Paciugo Gelato and Phoebe's Cupcakes as quality, nearby dessert options)
On the whole? Sura is worth the while, and an especially good value if you use a Restaurant.com coupon (a $25 savings). Lots of dishes pair well with a wide variety of wines, and the good service combines with a unique atmosphere to make for an enjoyable, upbeat, and interesting experience. A lively neighborhood with options for dessert makes it a great date spot. Visit a wine shop, grab a bottle, and head to Sura for a fun night out on a lively section of Broadway. Enjoy!
Wines mentioned:
Posted from CellarTracker
The Place
Sura is a little futuristic and struck me as somewhat odd when first entering; the room is almost entirely white, the tables are irregularly shaped, and the chairs & booths are also unique. If this is out of your comfort zone, don’t fret—the initially sterile impression is soon removed by dim lights and tabletop candles. Here are a few pictures of the room…
What can you expect at Sura? A modern, extremely clean layout with details leaning toward futuristic.
 |
| From Drop Box |
What you don't see in the below picture is the DJ booth—no joke.
 |
| From Drop Box |
The back quarter of the room is partially divided with an interesting, hole-filled wall (it's more art than wall, really)
 |
| From Drop Box |
The Food
A quick scan of the menu shows several chili, peanut sauce, and basil dishes typical of Thai cooking. These are mixed with chicken, beef, tofu, or shrimp. Some incorporate other seafood, and Sushi has a large presence here as well (Monday nights are $22 all you can eat Sushi & select appetizers, FYI).
My date and I divided a couple of sushi rolls, an appetizer, and an entree to comprise our meal. The Hulk roll came first, which was very good--just crunchy & warm enough to highlight all that raw, tasty fish.
 |
| From Drop Box |
Next came the Spicy Scallop roll, served with large scallop chunks & a seaweed wrapper—this was good & went well with the wine. Then the waiter brought our "fritters." These had crab, chicken, and shrimp filling inside of crunchy wonton wrappers. The presentation (below) was slick, and the sauce was an interesting tropical sweet & sour marmalade. Very tasty, and the pairing was absolutely rocking with the juicy sweetness of the wine.
 |
| From Drop Box |
Finally, our entree was the "Oceanic Basil," which had fish, mushrooms, peppercorns, shrimp, calamari, and basil. It was a typical Thai dish, done pretty well. Recommended, if you want some Thai-style spice & enjoy seafood.
The Wine
I can't recall what bottle of wine I took on my first trip to Sura (nearly a year ago), but Thai food and Thai heat make me reach for a white that is a little off-dry (slightly sweet) to absorb heat, but also shows good flavors to enhance tamer dishes.
Visit a nearby wine shop (try The Gourmet Grape, Binny's, or Kafka) ask for a wine with some of the following components: "off-dry/slightly sweet, floral or fragrant, structured." This could lead to a Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Prosecco, or perhaps a Vouvray Chenin Blanc, all of which will do well with most of the food at Sura. No fear with any of these selections.
While I think it’s more interesting to talk to a shop’s wine expert to pick a bottle, here are some specific suggestions I would like with Sura's menu: Riondo Prosecco ($12), Pichot Vouvray la Moriette ($15), St. Urbans-Hof Riesling Spatlese ($24), Zind Humbrecht Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim ($45).
This night I went with a bottle of off-dry Gewurztraminer. Gewurz may be an unfamiliar grape to some, but trust me that they are easy to enjoy (impress your date by calling out the obvious lychee & nuanced rose scents found in most Gewurz wines). Italy’s Prosecco is probably what I try on my next visit, as it’s typically sweet and often bubbly (bubbles + sushi = sublime pairing).
The Wrap-Up
And what if you're at Sura trying to impress someone and would like to keep a good vibe going after dinner? Hop across the street to Intelligentsia for some coffee drinks. Is there anyone who isn't at least a little romanced by latte art? I think not. (I can also vouch for Paciugo Gelato and Phoebe's Cupcakes as quality, nearby dessert options)
 |
| From Drop Box |
On the whole? Sura is worth the while, and an especially good value if you use a Restaurant.com coupon (a $25 savings). Lots of dishes pair well with a wide variety of wines, and the good service combines with a unique atmosphere to make for an enjoyable, upbeat, and interesting experience. A lively neighborhood with options for dessert makes it a great date spot. Visit a wine shop, grab a bottle, and head to Sura for a fun night out on a lively section of Broadway. Enjoy!
Wines mentioned:
- 2006 J. Hofstätter Gewürztraminer Kolbenhof - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol (12/21/2009)
When first open & chilled, this was a bit muted and the 15% alcohol really bared some ugly teeth. Air and some time in the glass changed this wine quite a bit. My note is from it's better side.
Very perfumey nose with rosewater, a little honey, obvious melon & lychee, a touch of juicy pear. Quite fragrant and feminine. Tasting brings these feminine flavors, juicy white tropical fruits, and some sweetness. Transition presents adequate acid, good juicy sweetness, and a medium finish that has light white fruit & tropical floral flavors. Nice wine, although it shows some alcohol late in the midpalate & could use a little more acidic backbone.
I especially enjoyed the full body brought about by the sweetness matched against the great floral tones. This went well with moderately spicy Thai & sushi dishes. (88 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
- N.V. Riondo Prosecco Veneto IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT (8/25/2008)
Nice nose driven by citrus & mineral tones. Good texture from the fizz on the palate and nice, acidic citrus zest up front that fleshes out to the finish that gives a kiss of sweet grapefruit. Definitely liked that transition part of the wine. Ok finish. Went great with seafood pasta & cream sauce. (86 pts.)
- 2007 J. C. Pichot Vouvray Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (1/26/2009)
Good lemon, grapefruit/tangerine, floral/tropical nose. Very nice, balanced weight in the mouth with a great lemony / juicy citrus taste that bursts into a slightly sweet finish and leaves me wanting more. Bits of mineral tones show up now & then. Just a little more acidity would have made this an outstanding bottle, but as is it's everything I could want from $14. It even went pretty well with sushi. (88 pts.)
- 2007 St. Urbans-Hof Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (3/20/2009)
Gorgeous Riesling. Great floral nose, a hint of minerality (think quartz) and plenty of luscious fruit scents--pineapple, pears, mango, peaches, and a bit of green grass hidden underneath all of that. Palate has great juicy weight anchored to pineapple, peach, pear, and mineral flavors. These are then cut by a good lifted acid and the finish brings home floral, mineral, and luscious tropical white / yellow fruit tones. Went great with a basil & duck Thai dish. Absolutely outstanding bottle, looking forward to a couple more bottles in the future. 91-92 (92 pts.)
- 2005 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Turckheim - France, Alsace, Turckheim, Alsace AOC (11/14/2008)
Binny's Alsace Tasting (Binny's South Loop, Chicago): Lemon, soap, dryer sheets, lime, and minerals on the nose--great nose! Palate is rich and elegant with some good acid supporting lime, honey, fruit & flower flavors. Pretty good finish with enjoyable sweetness. Fairly complex throughout. (91 pts.)
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