(k)new

The Start
A friend and I separately saw “Inception” its opening weekend and decided we should see it again, together, to fully understand & discuss its twists (yes, it’s great and you too will want to see it multiple times). Planning to catch our repeat viewing on a Wednesday, I had in mind to visit Sweets & Savories for $10 burger night and walk to the Webster movie theater after. As I didn’t call until that evening, S&S was completely booked. A couple of Google searches for restaurants near the city’s northern theaters showed that (k)new, right around the corner from the theater on Western, offers a $20 three course prix-fixe dinner. Having been to (k)new once and enjoying the food (but I found it expensive that first trip), I decided to give this discounted menu a try.

The Place
As many may know, (k)new is an iteration from chef Omar Rodriquez’s first restaurant, Think. Anyone who visited Think (formerly in Wicker Park) will quickly recognize similar décor in (k)new (located in Logan Square). Medium lighting, light-colored walls, white tablecloths, candles, clean lines, and accents that integrate glass & natural wood. Sunlight filled the front half of the restaurant early in the evening, but after sundown the space began to dim and the feel is comfortably intimate.

The Food
My first trip to (k)new came with wine friends. In typical fashion, we ordered multiple appetizers, large main courses, and many desserts. I recall the appetizers being interesting but slightly disappointing; conservative serving sizes made it difficult to share. The venison rack I had was delicious--as were all desserts--but the price tag outmeasured the dining experience, and it took the $20 special to draw me back (entrees here typically cost $18-$32).
This latest trip kept me to this prix-fixe menu, which includes a soup or salad, any entrée that isn’t lamb/ venison/buffalo, and a choice of two desserts. I had spinach soup (very good, with crème fraiche & a shrimp waiting at the bottom), shrimp & lobster cavatappi (an excellent take on grown up mac & cheese; pictured below), and tried both desserts (I preferred the blood orange crème brulee). We were also given an amuse bouche of tuna ceviche, which was a fun way to wake up the palate. My friend enjoyed her salad & pumpkin-seed crusted fish, and preferred the brownie for dessert.

We both came out fulfilled & pleased with the food, but there was one drawback: service time. We were in the restaurant nearly 2 hours and didn’t make it to the movie. While we didn’t especially mind and didn’t make our time constraints known to the staff, I was surprised at the amount of time spent waiting for each course. Ours could have been a unique experience, but keep this in mind if planning an evening here.

The Wine
As I mentioned, my first trip to (k)new was with a wine group. We tasted through several Barolo wines with age on them. These were great with the red meat dishes we ordered. If planning to dine from the full menu, hearty Nebbiolo (Barolo, Barbaresco, Langhe) is a great choice. Ask your wine merchant for a bottling from a traditional producer, which should give you something with some nice leather and/or floral tones.
The prixe-fix menu is a different story.
The only prixe-fix entrée that calls for red wine is the duck dish; if you plan ahead for duck, bring a Pinot Noir--I recommend a New Zealand bottling if you want to spend <$20, 2008 Washington or 2007 Californian if you can swing >$25.
Otherwise, the prix-fixe menu is white wine territory. In my rush to make reservations, a quick scan of the menu pointed toward Chardonnay as a great choice. I selected one from New Zealand, which honestly was just a decent pairing with the meal. It was vibrant and tropical fruit-forward; I was hoping for something with greater (medium) weight & a gentle touch of oak. Learn from my experience: stick to Californian (or South American, if branching out) Chardonnay here; Calera’s base Chard bottling ($15) is a favorite of mine and would have been outstanding.

The Whole
While the service this night was slow and caused us to miss a second digestion of Inception, the degaustation at (k)new provided a night of interesting food & comfortable conversation (no need to either yell or whisper here; I appreciate being able to use my standard inside voice while dining). The $20 price tag for Wednesday’s prix-fixe menu is one of the best dining values I have come across and is highly recommended. Take a bottle of Chardonnay and prepare for interesting flavors mixed into familiar dishes--(k)new pleases on many fronts, and in a ranking of mid-week dining options, I’m convinced most will place it high on their list.


2008 Craggy Range Chardonnay Single Vineyard Kidnappers Vineyard - New Zealand, North Island, Hawkes Bay (7/21/2010)
This was driven by crisp white peach, some yellow pear, and a bit of canteloupe. It was rather crisp in the spectrum of Chardonnay, finishing vibrantly with good hints of tropical fruit and a bit of minerally verve. Med length finish, decent mouthfeel had some viscosity but didn't have noticeable density.

Part of me wishes this had some more weight to it, but regardless--still a very good wine. (85 pts.)


Posted from CellarTracker

Mado

Many of my wine drinking friends have given Mado ample praise for its provision of food that is simply prepared yet interesting. With a $40 Groupon waiting to be used, I decided to give it a go on Saturday night. I checked OpenTable.com that afternoon and reserved a table for 2 at 9 PM.

The Look & Feel
Mado stresses simplicity in its farm to table cooking. This dedication is well reflected in the restaurant's interior. Picture a farmhouse or old one room schoolhouse that's been altered to fit in an urban environment. That's Mado's dining room: large natural wood table in the center, hardwood floors & table tops throughout, gritty exposed brick, and artwork that isn't at all imposing or distracting. Add in comfortable chairs to stress the urban setting and it all mixes well. Of note, they didn't actually have wine glasses but instead served into small glass tumblers.

The Food
The menu here is printed daily, based on what's available fresh from farms in surrounding states. Many pieces reflect snout to tail selection--beef heart was available when I I visited and pighead stew is mentioned on the Mado website. While tempted, I stayed relatively middle of the road. Pictured below is the meat charcuterie platter--a country pate, cured thinly sliced pork shoulder, and a pate made from cheeks & jowels. The latter was absolutely outstanding--meaty, dark, heavier than expected, but still very clearly pork. The grainy mustard served with was excellent as well.
As an entree, we had the pork leg raillard. This was grilled & served with faro on the side. The meat was perfectly prepared and full of flavor. I had a side of gorgonzola polenta, which was a bit too salty on its own but was great with the pork. We took a 1/2 pound of "migas bark" to go. This is dark chocolate bark with some tasty/savory add-ins and very very addicting.

Meat Platter. 

Wine Time
A more experienced wine buddy of mine suggested that if taking 1 bottle, I take Nebbiolo. This is always a safe bet, but I didn't have any on hand. I ended up taking an older Zinfandel and a Riesling. The Zin went great with the grilled pork, while the bold Riesling was able to stand up to the strong mustard and paired quite well with the meat platter.
I could see Pinot doing ok here, but if buying a red I'd go with a Nebbiolo (look for "Langhe" or "Barolo" or "Barbaresco" on a label of Italian wine) or a Syrah (esp if ordering grilled foods) that hasn't seen much oak--ask the folks at the wine shop, there should be plenty of options in these categories.
If planning to order the meat platter, picking up a dry Riesling from Austria or Australia could be a great option. Or ask a wineshop attendant for a bone dry Riesling from Germany or Alsace if you want to spend a few more dollars.

The Whole
I was impressed and will definitely go back. The food is interesting and well-prepared, pairing well with wine. Knowing the menu changes with the season and that any given piece of an animal can be featured is great; I look forward to a vastly different menu when I head back later this summer. Even in my fairly pedestrian ordering, I encountered some new vegetables & flavors I had not tasted before--always worth bonus points in my book. Take some wine, order daringly, and dig in: I don't see many being disappointed with what Mado brings from the farm to your table.

Wines I had:

• 2002 Joseph Swan Vineyards Zinfandel Lone Redwood - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (5/15/2010)
  Nose of cedary twigs, dusty red fruits, bits of blackberries, and occasional hints of something in the coffee/bitter chocolate realm of scents. Tasting brings forth dark red strawberries & notable black fruits that still have some juiciness with a coating of dustiness & woody/cedary spices. A touch earthy at times. Transitions to the finish with a pop of tart (pomegranate/unripe raspberry) acidity, little tannin, and slightly clipped length.
  This went great with grilled pork leg raillard, having still enough acidity to stand up to the meat & char, which worked well with the earth/spice tones. (88 pts.)
  

Posted from CellarTracker

• 2000 Prager Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Hollerin - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (5/15/2010)
  Perfumed florals and tropical white fruits present themselves at first, but with time deeper aromas exude--not quite petrol, but a mossy scent comes out that is quite interesting. Hints of white grapefruit in the background give a sense of power. In the mouth this has gorgeous, bold presence; it's the tall beauty pageant contestant winning on determination & class. Rich pineapple, apricot, some citrus hints up front. Back end keeps those going with a well-balanced acid as some mineral, slightly earthen tones flow in beneath the fruit and bits of lemon. Dry. None too heavy, none too delicate, this is a great Riesling.
  This was strong enough to do great with grainy, spicy mustard and a few charcuterie options. (90 pts.)

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Cafe Lucci

North of the city in Glenview lies Cafe Lucci. I have dined here several times now, for both business & pleasure. The restaurant actually has a great wine list but also allows patrons to BYO. 6 days a week corkage is rather expensive--I believe $25--but on Mondays there is no corking fee. My visit was on a Monday after work.

The Place
First, being in the suburbs affords the luxury of an ample parking lot and a complimentary valet is offered. Inside, the restaurant provides a feel that is certainly classy and inviting. White table cloths, some booth seating, rich wood, etc. etc. It's a good atmosphere.

The Food
I have been pleased with the fresh, comforting, Italian fare each visit here. This time I had the duck ragu with pasta; excellent. My date had a veal dish with mozzarella and tomato puree--it was also delicious. I have previously enjoyed both steak and seafood here quite a bit, too. In my experience, the specials & waiter's suggestions are worth listening to. Desserts are worthwhile here, with the Fantasia being a classic I've enjoyed a few times. It's a chocolate egg fill with a bit of cake, berries, and a little cream & raspberry sauce. Pictured below with a birthday candle.

From Drop Box

The Wine
First, let it be known that Cafe Lucci's great wine program extends to their service and glassware. They decant, have multiple glass shapes, and generally just know how to treat wine.
Per actual wine, I took a young Barbaresco. Another time dining here we enjoyed various grape varieties, but it's hard to recommend anything away from the Nebbiolo grape. Langhe, Barbaresco, Barolo are key regions to look for. I've had a couple of Chiantis here that did work with a steak course, but Nebbiolo's acidity makes it work great with anything from a creamy seafood dish up to richly acidic tomato sauces on braised meats. Both the duck ragu and veal dishes enjoyed last week paired beautifully to the Barbaresco.

The Sum
This is a great restaurant. The help is knowledgeable and refreshingly, well, helpful! If you're lucky the loquacious owner Bobby will be around and visit your table--very friendly guy. Excellent wine service could actually justify bringing a special bottle in and paying the high corkage, but if such a large sum irks you then there are plenty of good bottles on the wine list and there are Mondays with no corkage. Talk to your server, find what they like, sit back & enjoy the comforting Italian experience of Cafe Lucci.

2005 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Torre - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (3/22/2010)
Nose of some rustic earthen tones, great soft floral/violet scents, and some rich red & dark cherries. Tasting brings in those earthy tones with clear, fresh cherry wrapped in a layer of vibrant acidity. Finishes with pulling tannins and strong acid, which slightly cover the flavors here (popped & poured, drank over 2.5 hours) but there is some length to all the elements. Certainly very good now, but there's more waiting down the road. 87-88 with plenty of upside.

Went great with duck ragu pasta (88 pts.)

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Bon Soiree

I had been eying chef Shin's seasonal menus for quite a while, after hearing of its quality from a few wine friends and later buying a Groupon to help save a few bucks. The 8 course Winter menu grabbed my attention. When I received an e-mail notifying me of a free bonus foie gras course, my resistance snapped.

The Place
Bon Soiree is located far West of my usual stomping grounds, in the westernmost part of Bucktown (I think it's still Bucktown, not certain though). It's a small, non-descript building with an empty lot next door. Inside is exposed brick, low/medium lighting, and minimal decorations that are comfortable and contemporary. Crisp white cloths cover the tabletops. It's a classy yet easy-going atmosphere that is perfectly suited to the food & experience.

The Food
Food at Bon Soiree is upscale modern with Japanese influence. I won't go into much detail on specific dishes, but in summary: this was the best meal I have ever had, bar none. I may be a pushover since this was my first visit to a restaurant that aims to push the envelope on flavors, but everything was outstanding. Many courses brought grins and ingredient combinations I had never experienced before. My personal favorites were scallop & peekytoe motoyaki and a veal/coffee consomme with chocolate and dumpling. I also really enjoyed my candied brussel sprouts. But honestly, there were no weak links here. Everything was interesting and worth paying attention to.
Most dishes shown here; click to expand

From Collages

The Wine
I spent weeks brainstorming the perfect combination of wines for this dinner, discussing options with fellow wine geeks and combing through my inventory. I settled on Champagne, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, and Pinot Noir (specific bottles noted below). Each of these worked great with a couple dishes, and overall the food was very wine-friendly. I suggest at least 3 bottles: a versatile white, a medium-bodied & dark-flavored red, and a light-bodied, more acidic red (probably Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo). If you can tack on a bubbly you'll be even further rewarded (my Champagne was just a half bottle).
For additional reference, when a friend asked for budget-conscious suggestions, I directed her toward a Calera Chardonnay ($15), Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero ($20), and Sherwood Pinot Noir ($14). These worked well for her, and together can cover a broad range of foods.
Best advice though: go to Howard's Wine Cellar on Belmont and discuss with him. Howard knows his wines and dines at Bon Soiree multiple times a year, so he is familiar with the menu & food.

The Whole
Outstanding. This is probably going to serve as my gateway drug to seek out similar experiences. I'd gladly sacrifice dining out once a month to free up the budget to visit Bon Soiree a time or two throughout the year. Of note, the waitresses were extremely helpful and positively added to the experience. Also, the Groupon I used here saved $50 and apparently I caught the 2nd occasion this restaurant has been featured on Groupon--so watch for that. They even added a bonus course of Hiramasa, bringing the total to 10 courses. While it's not easy to call an $85 meal a value, the chance to experience these creations is worth every penny. I have nothing but high praise for chef Shin Thompson's abilities, staff, and creations--I suggest you start saving some change and join Bon Soiree's mailing list to pounce as soon as a menu catches your interest. It's certain to delight.

My wine selections:

• N.V. Maurice Vesselle Champagne Grand Cru Brut Cuvée Réservée - France, Champagne, Montagne de Reims, Champagne
  Nose has baked pear, a hint of green apple, a fresh cream scent, and good lemony citrusy...very perfumed & intriguing nose. This has great crema, filling the mouth with rich tiny bubbles. The flavors show great depth (white fruits, citrus, dry oatmeal) and there's gorgeous body here...very rich, seductive mouthfeel. Finishes with a nice balance of acidity and baked pear/lemon tart flavors lasting for quite a while. (92 pts.)
• 2006 Brick House Chardonnay Ribbon Ridge - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
  First served chilled. Nose of browned butter, baked flaky pie crust, fresh white juicy pear and a touch of red apple. Tasting initially brings apple & pear up front, then gains body and adds on toasted nuttiness (almonds, hazelnuts?) through the midpalate. Finish is a good balance of oak, baked apples, pear juice, and a bit of lemon for crispness.
  
  Leaves an impression of a rich body with full flavors. Oak is a part of this wine and was originally a bit strong, but as it warmed up
  this balanced out nicely. Paired great with a couple of rich seafood dishes. (89 pts.)
• 2005 Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
  Decanted an hour, re-corked & drank 90 minutes later. Nose is dark; blackberries with some dark red fruits and a touch of smoked spices. In the mouth this remains dark with a core of blackberries & some red fruits adding interest. Finishes pretty long with dense--but unobtrusive--tannins and tart red & black fruits with a smattering of enjoyably spicy oak tones. (90 pts.)
• 2006 Phillips Hill Pinot Noir Toulouse Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
  Great nose has a core of ripe dark cherries, Dr. Pepper aromas, some crushed red cherries, a raspberry tone, and dry spices. An interestingly dark and fragrant nose. The palate continues with dark & red fruits sprinkled with an array of brown spices. Elegant and mid-weight in the mouth. Finishes with strong structure, plenty of fruit, spice, body, and length.
  This is intriguing throughout and comes with a body that is both rich and elegant. This was a knockout with rabbit & oxtail. 91-92 and a bit more interesting than it was 15 months ago. (91 pts.)

HB Home Bistro

When a friend reached out for restaurant locations to hold a wine dinner, Home Bistro was at the top of my list. The menu changes frequently to focus on seasonal ingredients & recipes and the atmosphere is cozy and vibrant. It is a great spot for a small group or for a dinner leaning toward romantic. This was my third trip to Home Bistro and I have always walked away impressed.

The Place
Located in a small space right in the heart of Boystown, HB could easily feel hectic or cramped but it avoids any negatives potentially caused by the bustling location and limited footage. Soft yellow walls, warm wood tones, and candle light certainly help. Normally I wouldn't recommend for a group of more than 4 (and I'd even call in a reso for 2 on the weekends) but my party visited on a Thursday night. This afforded us a large table in the back corner and a few hours to enjoy dinner without feeling pressured.

The Food
HB serves up Modern American fare, often with an interesting variety of proteins. My first two trips I had veal osso bucco & a rabbit stew--both perfectly cooked & in interesting preparations--and on this trip I had spiced lamb sausage.
Here are a few thoughts for the best experience:
--Always listen to the specials; they're often well-inspired creations.
--Get an appetizer and/or dessert. These are usually traditional dishes with interesting twists worth the tariff.
--Converse with the waiter. He knows what he's talking about and gives an honest opinion. He's also open to discussing alterations; this has resulted in once getting a small sample of truffle oiled fries & another time receiving 3 small servings of bread pudding for dessert instead of experiencing just a single flavor (they were all perfection in gooey form).

My recent lamb sausage on white beans:


The Wine
Dark tones (brown sugar, cinnamon, woody herbs) and braising/roasting are present in many dishes here. For a red wine, I'd suggest a California Pinot Noir or Italian Barbaresco. Ask at nearby Kafka or Gourmet Grape for a "medium bodied wine with rich dark red flavors and tight/focused structure." The food is friendly to all kinds of wine so don't be afraid to take any bottle you're in the mood for, but Cali Pinot is where I would lean.
On the white side, the preparations are a bit more varied--I'd go toward a bubbly for its flexibility or a crisp white Rhone blend (the latter worked well for me in October).

The End
Interesting selections of meat well-prepared with interesting complimentary flavors--I'm in! This is in my rotation to visit every few months as I know I will find a creative dish perfectly suited to the season & my craving. The chef and staff are always knowledgeable & friendly (they were extremely accommodating of our large, slow-moving group with 15 bottles). I highly recommend a visit to check out the plenty of good opportunities to explore on Home Bistro's menu. Enter with a willingness to try something new or unique and I'm sure you will enjoy what you find.

Wines I enjoyed at HB a few months back:
2007 Phillips Hill Pinot Noir Oppenlander Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County (10/30/2009)
Nose has a bit of earth behind raspberries & other dark red fruits. These carry onto the palate, which has good weight but not quite the typical Pinot structure I expect...not bad, just unexpected. Finishes with dark red fruits, comfortable acidity, and some vibrant baking spices. Finish shows great length to it.
Good mix of flavors in a weighty package. Only had this open 30 minutes before drinking (no decant) and I suspect more time will serve it well. All the pieces are there, but currently its weight denies it from showing nuances or layers. Regardless, a great bottle that managed to pair well with a braised rabbit dish. (90 pts.)

2008 Coume del Mas Côtes du Roussillon Cristine - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon (10/30/2009)
Pretty nose of flowers, white peach, fresh herbs and a backdrop of other white fruits as well. Hits the mouth with great density, a viscous / silky texture, and lots of good white fruit & flowers. A touch of green herb or grass shows in there too, beneath all the other flavors. Smooth transition to a finish that has great length and adds a touch of salinity & proper acidity. Honey flavors show up as well (but not sweetness). Very pretty, great length, intriguing mix of flavors throughout. "It is an equal part blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Macabeu and Grenache Gris(92 pts.)