Mado

Many of my wine drinking friends have given Mado ample praise for its provision of food that is simply prepared yet interesting. With a $40 Groupon waiting to be used, I decided to give it a go on Saturday night. I checked OpenTable.com that afternoon and reserved a table for 2 at 9 PM.

The Look & Feel
Mado stresses simplicity in its farm to table cooking. This dedication is well reflected in the restaurant's interior. Picture a farmhouse or old one room schoolhouse that's been altered to fit in an urban environment. That's Mado's dining room: large natural wood table in the center, hardwood floors & table tops throughout, gritty exposed brick, and artwork that isn't at all imposing or distracting. Add in comfortable chairs to stress the urban setting and it all mixes well. Of note, they didn't actually have wine glasses but instead served into small glass tumblers.

The Food
The menu here is printed daily, based on what's available fresh from farms in surrounding states. Many pieces reflect snout to tail selection--beef heart was available when I I visited and pighead stew is mentioned on the Mado website. While tempted, I stayed relatively middle of the road. Pictured below is the meat charcuterie platter--a country pate, cured thinly sliced pork shoulder, and a pate made from cheeks & jowels. The latter was absolutely outstanding--meaty, dark, heavier than expected, but still very clearly pork. The grainy mustard served with was excellent as well.
As an entree, we had the pork leg raillard. This was grilled & served with faro on the side. The meat was perfectly prepared and full of flavor. I had a side of gorgonzola polenta, which was a bit too salty on its own but was great with the pork. We took a 1/2 pound of "migas bark" to go. This is dark chocolate bark with some tasty/savory add-ins and very very addicting.

Meat Platter. 

Wine Time
A more experienced wine buddy of mine suggested that if taking 1 bottle, I take Nebbiolo. This is always a safe bet, but I didn't have any on hand. I ended up taking an older Zinfandel and a Riesling. The Zin went great with the grilled pork, while the bold Riesling was able to stand up to the strong mustard and paired quite well with the meat platter.
I could see Pinot doing ok here, but if buying a red I'd go with a Nebbiolo (look for "Langhe" or "Barolo" or "Barbaresco" on a label of Italian wine) or a Syrah (esp if ordering grilled foods) that hasn't seen much oak--ask the folks at the wine shop, there should be plenty of options in these categories.
If planning to order the meat platter, picking up a dry Riesling from Austria or Australia could be a great option. Or ask a wineshop attendant for a bone dry Riesling from Germany or Alsace if you want to spend a few more dollars.

The Whole
I was impressed and will definitely go back. The food is interesting and well-prepared, pairing well with wine. Knowing the menu changes with the season and that any given piece of an animal can be featured is great; I look forward to a vastly different menu when I head back later this summer. Even in my fairly pedestrian ordering, I encountered some new vegetables & flavors I had not tasted before--always worth bonus points in my book. Take some wine, order daringly, and dig in: I don't see many being disappointed with what Mado brings from the farm to your table.

Wines I had:

• 2002 Joseph Swan Vineyards Zinfandel Lone Redwood - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (5/15/2010)
  Nose of cedary twigs, dusty red fruits, bits of blackberries, and occasional hints of something in the coffee/bitter chocolate realm of scents. Tasting brings forth dark red strawberries & notable black fruits that still have some juiciness with a coating of dustiness & woody/cedary spices. A touch earthy at times. Transitions to the finish with a pop of tart (pomegranate/unripe raspberry) acidity, little tannin, and slightly clipped length.
  This went great with grilled pork leg raillard, having still enough acidity to stand up to the meat & char, which worked well with the earth/spice tones. (88 pts.)
  

Posted from CellarTracker

• 2000 Prager Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Hollerin - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (5/15/2010)
  Perfumed florals and tropical white fruits present themselves at first, but with time deeper aromas exude--not quite petrol, but a mossy scent comes out that is quite interesting. Hints of white grapefruit in the background give a sense of power. In the mouth this has gorgeous, bold presence; it's the tall beauty pageant contestant winning on determination & class. Rich pineapple, apricot, some citrus hints up front. Back end keeps those going with a well-balanced acid as some mineral, slightly earthen tones flow in beneath the fruit and bits of lemon. Dry. None too heavy, none too delicate, this is a great Riesling.
  This was strong enough to do great with grainy, spicy mustard and a few charcuterie options. (90 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Tac Quick

I'd been to Tac Quick once before, and this past week when I felt like a decent dinner out it came to mind as a place worth revisiting. I recalled a large menu with interesting specials & well done entrees. It repeated a good performance, giving me a good dinner out for not much cash.

The Place
Tac Quick is just about directly underneath the Sheridan redline stop. Inside is hardwood & nice tables. It feels urban enough and the glass front maintains that city setting with its view. I like the simple decor & felt it a good setting. They also have pretty impressive stemware for wine--always a plus.

The Food
On my first visit, I'd had the fish cakes (can't remember the Thai name--sorry) appetizer & Basil Duck special. Both were very good. This go around we had grilled octopus as an app. The meat was good, and the dipping sauce served with it packed a punch. My date & I split the clay pot noodle dish and both enjoyed it. Big shrimp, plenty of veggies, and tasty noodles. With mild heat, it was a tasty entree. Notably, Grilled Snails were a special of the day that tempted us, but we refrained.

The Wine
Thai food = heat; heat = sweeter wine. On my first trip I took an off-dry German Riesling that did great with my spicy duck & the heated fish cakes. This go around, I brought an Austrian Riesling that was a little too dry to handle the heat of the dipping sauce beside our appetizer, but worked great with the entree.

I'd look for an off-dry German Riesling here. Urbans-Hoff bottlings are a widely available, affordable option that I can recommend. Stepping up to Zindt-Humbrecht can give a higher-end option worth the extra bucks. Or, ask your wine merchant for a German Riesling with some residual sugar, but not more than medium sweetness. They'll probably hand you something with "Auslese" or "Spatlese" on the label--this means it has noticeable sweetness, which in our case means it will pair great with Thai heat.

The Sum
Tac Quick is great affordable Thai food with interesting specials and they do a great job covering the basics. Try out a special or give your favorite Thai dish a try here and my experiences tell me it won't disappoint. $2 corkage is reasonable and it's a great place to showcase a tasty Riesling. Worth the trip, which is an easy one if you're taking the redline, and worth the few bucks for a good atmosphere & enjoyable dinner.

Fun with pairings

Bbq, terragon pepper, "butchers rub," and sweet & sour grilled chicken with cauliflower and cous cous served alongside 3 wines from the past week.  Interesting and educational!

BBQ--paired best with the Gewurz
Terragon pepper--best with Gewurz, good with the rose too
Sweet & Sour--great with the Pinot
Butcher's rub--outstanding with the Pinot

• 2004 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Rotes Tor - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (3/30/2010)
  Note after a few hours of being open while on ice.
  Nose of honey, a touch of florals, white peach, pear, and an occasional mineral streak. Feel in the mouth is medium or richer, with a nice honey backdrop allowing for various white & citrus fruits layered on top; nuances of dried florals present themselves as well. A touch of sweetness is intriguing. Finishes with a mineral acidity accented by a touch of mild white pepper on apricot, white melon, and generic citrus fruits. Juicy, mouth-watering acidic flavors carry on for quite a while. Drinking great tonight. 90-92 (91 pts.)
  
• 2002 Mount Cass Pinot Noir - New Zealand, South Island, Canterbury, Waipara (3/30/2010)
  After a few hours past opening (no decanter though), nose is cherry, some root vegetable, and a touch of funk. Tasting brings an overarching earthiness, with bright acid in cherry form buttressing a medium, complete mouthfeel. Transitions to vibrant, more fruit forward black cherry, raspberry, cherry, and nicely acidic finish. Tannins are almost completely resolved.
  
  Likely drinking at peak, but food friendly despite leaning (slightly) toward a fruit-forward profile. Had with a sweet corn, bacon, and cheddar risotto and proved to be an admirable pairing. (88 pts.)
  
• 2007 Murphy's Law Lemberger Rosé - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley (3/29/2010)
  Nose of strawberry puree, bubble gum, and a hint of floral & citrus too. Tastes of strawberry bubblegum, transitions to candied bright red berries & that hint of citrus. Good acid, enjoyable body, but a short finish. I like it though; a nice food friendly sipper (82 pts.)
  

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Cafe Lucci

North of the city in Glenview lies Cafe Lucci. I have dined here several times now, for both business & pleasure. The restaurant actually has a great wine list but also allows patrons to BYO. 6 days a week corkage is rather expensive--I believe $25--but on Mondays there is no corking fee. My visit was on a Monday after work.

The Place
First, being in the suburbs affords the luxury of an ample parking lot and a complimentary valet is offered. Inside, the restaurant provides a feel that is certainly classy and inviting. White table cloths, some booth seating, rich wood, etc. etc. It's a good atmosphere.

The Food
I have been pleased with the fresh, comforting, Italian fare each visit here. This time I had the duck ragu with pasta; excellent. My date had a veal dish with mozzarella and tomato puree--it was also delicious. I have previously enjoyed both steak and seafood here quite a bit, too. In my experience, the specials & waiter's suggestions are worth listening to. Desserts are worthwhile here, with the Fantasia being a classic I've enjoyed a few times. It's a chocolate egg fill with a bit of cake, berries, and a little cream & raspberry sauce. Pictured below with a birthday candle.

From Drop Box

The Wine
First, let it be known that Cafe Lucci's great wine program extends to their service and glassware. They decant, have multiple glass shapes, and generally just know how to treat wine.
Per actual wine, I took a young Barbaresco. Another time dining here we enjoyed various grape varieties, but it's hard to recommend anything away from the Nebbiolo grape. Langhe, Barbaresco, Barolo are key regions to look for. I've had a couple of Chiantis here that did work with a steak course, but Nebbiolo's acidity makes it work great with anything from a creamy seafood dish up to richly acidic tomato sauces on braised meats. Both the duck ragu and veal dishes enjoyed last week paired beautifully to the Barbaresco.

The Sum
This is a great restaurant. The help is knowledgeable and refreshingly, well, helpful! If you're lucky the loquacious owner Bobby will be around and visit your table--very friendly guy. Excellent wine service could actually justify bringing a special bottle in and paying the high corkage, but if such a large sum irks you then there are plenty of good bottles on the wine list and there are Mondays with no corkage. Talk to your server, find what they like, sit back & enjoy the comforting Italian experience of Cafe Lucci.

2005 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Torre - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (3/22/2010)
Nose of some rustic earthen tones, great soft floral/violet scents, and some rich red & dark cherries. Tasting brings in those earthy tones with clear, fresh cherry wrapped in a layer of vibrant acidity. Finishes with pulling tannins and strong acid, which slightly cover the flavors here (popped & poured, drank over 2.5 hours) but there is some length to all the elements. Certainly very good now, but there's more waiting down the road. 87-88 with plenty of upside.

Went great with duck ragu pasta (88 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Yuki Hana

On Friday night I felt like sushi. Hmmm...Restaurant.com lists a Yuki Hana coupon for $25 off of $45. When I visited a few months back the spicy rolls dominated my wine selection and the sushi wasn't overly inspiring. I took this visit as a chance to try a better fit of wine & order rolls that weren't dominated by heat--a second chance for Yuki Hana.

The Place
...is not much to look at. It occupies a small space on Clark street. Inside, it's filled with typical Asiany decorations--nothing remarkable, really, but at least it's an adequate space.

The Food
As mentioned earlier, take heed that the spicy rolls are pretty spicy. This trip I aimed to avoid exorbitant heat. Miso soup and edamame weren't bad; Yuki Hana checked the box with those. We ordered a Tuna/Avocado roll and a roll with eel, avocado, and cucumber. Both were plated nicely (sorry, forgot pics this time) and pretty tasty. We also ordered the spicy scallop entree, which was good but not great. Mochi ice cream was good, but $2.50 per piece surprised us when the bill came. Overall, the food is good but nothing is memorable as creative or outstanding.

The Wine
I took along a bottle of Cava that, while not as sweet as I had expected, went pretty well with the food. As mentioned in my Sura post, sushi=bubbles and spicy food=sweeter wine. Try a Cava for good value drier bubbles (Seguras Aria, Cristalino are good budget choices) or Prosecco for if you plan to order spicy food (Riondo is my go-to cheapie here). I wouldn't be afraid of a demi-sec Vouvray either. Ask your wineshop worker for something "slightly sweet and lighter bodied. Bonus points if it has bubbles."

The Whole
Yuki Hana serves up pretty good food & sushi (although the spicy rolls are overdone, IMO--maybe try one but they were not to my taste). The service is good, fish wasn't bad, and while menu items aren't overly creative all the standards are here. The bill surprised us a little bit; even after the $25 coupon ours was $33 before tip (damn you Mochi). I probably would have been happier spending $33 elsewhere and would certainly say to skip this place if paying full price. Yuki Hana did not deliver on this 2nd chance opportunity, and will likely not get a 3rd from me.

Friday's bubbly, a Cava:
N.V. Segura Viudas Cava Aria Brut - Spain, Catalunya, Cava (2/19/2010)
Nose of apricot, white pear, and citrus-basted toasted nuts. Good fleshy white fruits lead to a citrus, nutty, clean finish with nice length.

Had the Extra Dry last weekend and believe they are both excellent. These set the standard for value in wine buying. (88 pts.)
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Bon Soiree

I had been eying chef Shin's seasonal menus for quite a while, after hearing of its quality from a few wine friends and later buying a Groupon to help save a few bucks. The 8 course Winter menu grabbed my attention. When I received an e-mail notifying me of a free bonus foie gras course, my resistance snapped.

The Place
Bon Soiree is located far West of my usual stomping grounds, in the westernmost part of Bucktown (I think it's still Bucktown, not certain though). It's a small, non-descript building with an empty lot next door. Inside is exposed brick, low/medium lighting, and minimal decorations that are comfortable and contemporary. Crisp white cloths cover the tabletops. It's a classy yet easy-going atmosphere that is perfectly suited to the food & experience.

The Food
Food at Bon Soiree is upscale modern with Japanese influence. I won't go into much detail on specific dishes, but in summary: this was the best meal I have ever had, bar none. I may be a pushover since this was my first visit to a restaurant that aims to push the envelope on flavors, but everything was outstanding. Many courses brought grins and ingredient combinations I had never experienced before. My personal favorites were scallop & peekytoe motoyaki and a veal/coffee consomme with chocolate and dumpling. I also really enjoyed my candied brussel sprouts. But honestly, there were no weak links here. Everything was interesting and worth paying attention to.
Most dishes shown here; click to expand

From Collages

The Wine
I spent weeks brainstorming the perfect combination of wines for this dinner, discussing options with fellow wine geeks and combing through my inventory. I settled on Champagne, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, and Pinot Noir (specific bottles noted below). Each of these worked great with a couple dishes, and overall the food was very wine-friendly. I suggest at least 3 bottles: a versatile white, a medium-bodied & dark-flavored red, and a light-bodied, more acidic red (probably Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo). If you can tack on a bubbly you'll be even further rewarded (my Champagne was just a half bottle).
For additional reference, when a friend asked for budget-conscious suggestions, I directed her toward a Calera Chardonnay ($15), Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero ($20), and Sherwood Pinot Noir ($14). These worked well for her, and together can cover a broad range of foods.
Best advice though: go to Howard's Wine Cellar on Belmont and discuss with him. Howard knows his wines and dines at Bon Soiree multiple times a year, so he is familiar with the menu & food.

The Whole
Outstanding. This is probably going to serve as my gateway drug to seek out similar experiences. I'd gladly sacrifice dining out once a month to free up the budget to visit Bon Soiree a time or two throughout the year. Of note, the waitresses were extremely helpful and positively added to the experience. Also, the Groupon I used here saved $50 and apparently I caught the 2nd occasion this restaurant has been featured on Groupon--so watch for that. They even added a bonus course of Hiramasa, bringing the total to 10 courses. While it's not easy to call an $85 meal a value, the chance to experience these creations is worth every penny. I have nothing but high praise for chef Shin Thompson's abilities, staff, and creations--I suggest you start saving some change and join Bon Soiree's mailing list to pounce as soon as a menu catches your interest. It's certain to delight.

My wine selections:

• N.V. Maurice Vesselle Champagne Grand Cru Brut Cuvée Réservée - France, Champagne, Montagne de Reims, Champagne
  Nose has baked pear, a hint of green apple, a fresh cream scent, and good lemony citrusy...very perfumed & intriguing nose. This has great crema, filling the mouth with rich tiny bubbles. The flavors show great depth (white fruits, citrus, dry oatmeal) and there's gorgeous body here...very rich, seductive mouthfeel. Finishes with a nice balance of acidity and baked pear/lemon tart flavors lasting for quite a while. (92 pts.)
• 2006 Brick House Chardonnay Ribbon Ridge - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
  First served chilled. Nose of browned butter, baked flaky pie crust, fresh white juicy pear and a touch of red apple. Tasting initially brings apple & pear up front, then gains body and adds on toasted nuttiness (almonds, hazelnuts?) through the midpalate. Finish is a good balance of oak, baked apples, pear juice, and a bit of lemon for crispness.
  
  Leaves an impression of a rich body with full flavors. Oak is a part of this wine and was originally a bit strong, but as it warmed up
  this balanced out nicely. Paired great with a couple of rich seafood dishes. (89 pts.)
• 2005 Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
  Decanted an hour, re-corked & drank 90 minutes later. Nose is dark; blackberries with some dark red fruits and a touch of smoked spices. In the mouth this remains dark with a core of blackberries & some red fruits adding interest. Finishes pretty long with dense--but unobtrusive--tannins and tart red & black fruits with a smattering of enjoyably spicy oak tones. (90 pts.)
• 2006 Phillips Hill Pinot Noir Toulouse Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
  Great nose has a core of ripe dark cherries, Dr. Pepper aromas, some crushed red cherries, a raspberry tone, and dry spices. An interestingly dark and fragrant nose. The palate continues with dark & red fruits sprinkled with an array of brown spices. Elegant and mid-weight in the mouth. Finishes with strong structure, plenty of fruit, spice, body, and length.
  This is intriguing throughout and comes with a body that is both rich and elegant. This was a knockout with rabbit & oxtail. 91-92 and a bit more interesting than it was 15 months ago. (91 pts.)

HB Home Bistro

When a friend reached out for restaurant locations to hold a wine dinner, Home Bistro was at the top of my list. The menu changes frequently to focus on seasonal ingredients & recipes and the atmosphere is cozy and vibrant. It is a great spot for a small group or for a dinner leaning toward romantic. This was my third trip to Home Bistro and I have always walked away impressed.

The Place
Located in a small space right in the heart of Boystown, HB could easily feel hectic or cramped but it avoids any negatives potentially caused by the bustling location and limited footage. Soft yellow walls, warm wood tones, and candle light certainly help. Normally I wouldn't recommend for a group of more than 4 (and I'd even call in a reso for 2 on the weekends) but my party visited on a Thursday night. This afforded us a large table in the back corner and a few hours to enjoy dinner without feeling pressured.

The Food
HB serves up Modern American fare, often with an interesting variety of proteins. My first two trips I had veal osso bucco & a rabbit stew--both perfectly cooked & in interesting preparations--and on this trip I had spiced lamb sausage.
Here are a few thoughts for the best experience:
--Always listen to the specials; they're often well-inspired creations.
--Get an appetizer and/or dessert. These are usually traditional dishes with interesting twists worth the tariff.
--Converse with the waiter. He knows what he's talking about and gives an honest opinion. He's also open to discussing alterations; this has resulted in once getting a small sample of truffle oiled fries & another time receiving 3 small servings of bread pudding for dessert instead of experiencing just a single flavor (they were all perfection in gooey form).

My recent lamb sausage on white beans:


The Wine
Dark tones (brown sugar, cinnamon, woody herbs) and braising/roasting are present in many dishes here. For a red wine, I'd suggest a California Pinot Noir or Italian Barbaresco. Ask at nearby Kafka or Gourmet Grape for a "medium bodied wine with rich dark red flavors and tight/focused structure." The food is friendly to all kinds of wine so don't be afraid to take any bottle you're in the mood for, but Cali Pinot is where I would lean.
On the white side, the preparations are a bit more varied--I'd go toward a bubbly for its flexibility or a crisp white Rhone blend (the latter worked well for me in October).

The End
Interesting selections of meat well-prepared with interesting complimentary flavors--I'm in! This is in my rotation to visit every few months as I know I will find a creative dish perfectly suited to the season & my craving. The chef and staff are always knowledgeable & friendly (they were extremely accommodating of our large, slow-moving group with 15 bottles). I highly recommend a visit to check out the plenty of good opportunities to explore on Home Bistro's menu. Enter with a willingness to try something new or unique and I'm sure you will enjoy what you find.

Wines I enjoyed at HB a few months back:
2007 Phillips Hill Pinot Noir Oppenlander Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino County (10/30/2009)
Nose has a bit of earth behind raspberries & other dark red fruits. These carry onto the palate, which has good weight but not quite the typical Pinot structure I expect...not bad, just unexpected. Finishes with dark red fruits, comfortable acidity, and some vibrant baking spices. Finish shows great length to it.
Good mix of flavors in a weighty package. Only had this open 30 minutes before drinking (no decant) and I suspect more time will serve it well. All the pieces are there, but currently its weight denies it from showing nuances or layers. Regardless, a great bottle that managed to pair well with a braised rabbit dish. (90 pts.)

2008 Coume del Mas Côtes du Roussillon Cristine - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon (10/30/2009)
Pretty nose of flowers, white peach, fresh herbs and a backdrop of other white fruits as well. Hits the mouth with great density, a viscous / silky texture, and lots of good white fruit & flowers. A touch of green herb or grass shows in there too, beneath all the other flavors. Smooth transition to a finish that has great length and adds a touch of salinity & proper acidity. Honey flavors show up as well (but not sweetness). Very pretty, great length, intriguing mix of flavors throughout. "It is an equal part blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Macabeu and Grenache Gris(92 pts.)