A couple of years ago I tried MatsuYama for sushi and was not impressed--I don't recall specifics, but at the time I remember making a mental note to avoid going back. Fast forward a year, and I moved just a block from MastuYama...but still avoided it no matter how strong a sushi craving came. Months later, MatsuYama closed. More months later (late 2010 now) and the space is once again a sushi spot, this time under a new name: Ukai. After driving by it daily for months & reading several good reviews, I ventured in last week to see if this new restaurant could fill the need for a lazy-close (read: walk to it despite single-digit temps) sushi spot.
The Space
Dark toned wood & walls with warm red accents. Nice reeds break up the room a bit. Plenty of candles to make up for low lights. Decent sized sushi bar to seat 8. Warm, clean, with a good vibe & pleasantly simple Asian decor.
The Food
We started with the Tuna Tataki app. Tuna was good, yuzu air was a great touch, and assembly with the dried seaweed salad made for plenty of flavor in each bite. The Sox roll was our first roll. Tuna-based roll with interesting play of flavors. Avoid if you are spice-averse but I thought it was very good; actually had some complexity to it. Then was the Ukai Dynamite, a scallop-based roll. This was also good. Not nearly as spicy as the Sox roll, but also had a touch of warmth. All plates were presented well, delivering to the eyes as well as the taste buds.
The Wine
I grabbed a Riesling when walking out the door. This didn't work out so well; either the Riesling was too dry or the rolls we ordered were too spicy, but the pairing just wasn't great. Next time I'll stick with either bubbly (Extra Dry Cava from Aria would probably work for $10) or beer (Goose Island's Sofie would be perfect). As always with sushi, bubbles help clean the palate of the rice's stickiness & any spice. An Italian Prosecco, which often has some sweetness, could also be worth grabbing. Find something with bubbles, and if it's wine, be sure it has a little residual sugar (especially important if you're into spicy rolls).
The Whole
I was impressed. The place & plates looked great, the sushi was certainly above average, BYOB without corkage, and the bill came in low ($15 each after tax & tip). Living within a 5 minute walk of this place puts it into "dangerous" territory for me. It's nice enough to take a date to before a show, but affordable enough (and with a large enough menu) that I won't hesitate to head back repeatedly, whenever the sushi craving hits.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Pizza Rustica
To wrap up my holiday break, a friend and I spent last Sunday evening catching a movie & dinner together. I wanted someplace new, with warm food to break through the weather's chill. A bit of searching built my interest in Pizza Rustica. After seeing Black Swan (highly reco'd), we headed a bit north to give this neighborhood Italian place a try.
The Place
Small room near Irving & Sheridan (right across from Tac Quick, a favorite Thai spot) convenient to the Sheridan red line. Tables are arranged for intimacy over efficiency. Kitchen is in view behind the bar. Interesting original art is scattered on the walls. Inviting & warm.
The Food
I was drawn to this place after reading about the quality pizza they serve--so we went straight to that section of the menu. My friend & I split four "slices", which are each a quarter of what Pizza Rustica considers to be a full pizza. Here they are served as rectangles & cut into smaller squares. We stuck with the menu's house pizzas and ordered the Margherita, Verdure Grigliate (veggies), Quattro Stagioni, and Tutta. Here the pizzas are cooked in an electric oven--not quite as authentic as a wood or coal fire piece, but it's hot nevertheless--and achieve the great balance of crispy outside, soft-baked inside that sets the base for delicious pizza. The interior of the crust felt slightly grainy in a very good way...great texture. The sauce was good, as were the toppings, but neither were as impressive as the crust. Overall, a good pizza. My favorites were the Quattro Stagioni and Tutta.
The Wine
Pizza is time-tested with Chianti (from the Sangiovese grape) and beer. What did I take? California Syrah. Why? I knew my friend would like it, and the honest truth is that pizza goes with just about any wine that isn't oak-heavy or jammy (these kind of wines tend to dominate the pizza & don't work with the acid in a tomato sauce). "What to Drink with What you Eat," my go-to reference book for pairing guidance, lists the wide array of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Valpolicella, and Champagne as good pizza pairings (among many others). I'm not sure any other main-course food is as flexible as pizza.
My advice: take something you haven't had before. If you want to geek out, try and notice how the different toppings change the wine--the influence of our Tutta's bleu cheese vs. the Quattro Stagioni's artichokes was noticeable & interesting. Ask the worker at your favorite wine shop for something "off the beaten path, that isn't heavily oaked or over ripe." Bonus points if this leads to an Austrian red, indigenous Italian grapes, or a strange blend from southern France. Of course, it's tough to go wrong with the standard Chianti (I reco anything from Felsina) or beer (avoid hops...stick to pilsners & ambers--like the Great Lakes Elliott Ness).
The Whole
Count me as a fan of Pizza Rustica's good atmosphere, friendly staff, and great pizza. I'm pushing myself to make it to many thin-crust places this Winter, but after that exploration I bet Pizza Rustica keeps a spot in my regular rotation. Added bonus: it's not an expensive meal out. After the bill, tax, & tip we spent ~$18 total for 2. Good food, good price, and flexible wine pairings? Yep, this place is worth visiting--and likely repeating.
Wine I took:
2006 Zaca Mesa Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley (1/2/2011)
Nose of dark red fruits, crushed red cherries, a hint of dried herb, and a noticeable streak of oak (chocolate & currant). Palate is pretty smooth--nice sour cherry, rich dark red fruits, and some spice tones to it. Multiple components, for sure. Decent structure, but it's hardly noticeable behind the dense finish and hint of alcohol. Good length too. (88 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
The Place
Small room near Irving & Sheridan (right across from Tac Quick, a favorite Thai spot) convenient to the Sheridan red line. Tables are arranged for intimacy over efficiency. Kitchen is in view behind the bar. Interesting original art is scattered on the walls. Inviting & warm.
The Food
I was drawn to this place after reading about the quality pizza they serve--so we went straight to that section of the menu. My friend & I split four "slices", which are each a quarter of what Pizza Rustica considers to be a full pizza. Here they are served as rectangles & cut into smaller squares. We stuck with the menu's house pizzas and ordered the Margherita, Verdure Grigliate (veggies), Quattro Stagioni, and Tutta. Here the pizzas are cooked in an electric oven--not quite as authentic as a wood or coal fire piece, but it's hot nevertheless--and achieve the great balance of crispy outside, soft-baked inside that sets the base for delicious pizza. The interior of the crust felt slightly grainy in a very good way...great texture. The sauce was good, as were the toppings, but neither were as impressive as the crust. Overall, a good pizza. My favorites were the Quattro Stagioni and Tutta.
The Wine
Pizza is time-tested with Chianti (from the Sangiovese grape) and beer. What did I take? California Syrah. Why? I knew my friend would like it, and the honest truth is that pizza goes with just about any wine that isn't oak-heavy or jammy (these kind of wines tend to dominate the pizza & don't work with the acid in a tomato sauce). "What to Drink with What you Eat," my go-to reference book for pairing guidance, lists the wide array of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Valpolicella, and Champagne as good pizza pairings (among many others). I'm not sure any other main-course food is as flexible as pizza.
My advice: take something you haven't had before. If you want to geek out, try and notice how the different toppings change the wine--the influence of our Tutta's bleu cheese vs. the Quattro Stagioni's artichokes was noticeable & interesting. Ask the worker at your favorite wine shop for something "off the beaten path, that isn't heavily oaked or over ripe." Bonus points if this leads to an Austrian red, indigenous Italian grapes, or a strange blend from southern France. Of course, it's tough to go wrong with the standard Chianti (I reco anything from Felsina) or beer (avoid hops...stick to pilsners & ambers--like the Great Lakes Elliott Ness).
The Whole
Count me as a fan of Pizza Rustica's good atmosphere, friendly staff, and great pizza. I'm pushing myself to make it to many thin-crust places this Winter, but after that exploration I bet Pizza Rustica keeps a spot in my regular rotation. Added bonus: it's not an expensive meal out. After the bill, tax, & tip we spent ~$18 total for 2. Good food, good price, and flexible wine pairings? Yep, this place is worth visiting--and likely repeating.
Wine I took:
2006 Zaca Mesa Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley (1/2/2011)
Nose of dark red fruits, crushed red cherries, a hint of dried herb, and a noticeable streak of oak (chocolate & currant). Palate is pretty smooth--nice sour cherry, rich dark red fruits, and some spice tones to it. Multiple components, for sure. Decent structure, but it's hardly noticeable behind the dense finish and hint of alcohol. Good length too. (88 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
Monday, September 6, 2010
Machu Picchu, do I like you?
Having spent a while away in California's Sonoma county, one of my wine buddies & I got together to discuss my trip and generally talk wine. He picked Machu Picchu, a Peruvian spot on Ashland just south of Irving Park in Lakeview. We grabbed a few bottles and made our way over for a late Friday lunch.
The Place
Walls have faux-stone blocks painted on them & photo murals of Peru. Light-filled space with a large front window. 2 TVs on low volume played soccer. A bar seating area is in the back. Tables have white cloths topped with white paper. Waitstaff was dressed in white button-down shirts.
The Food
The menu is fairly lengthy, with many dish types available. Most are chicken or beef, but plenty of fish & some veggie options are also listed. We started with a mixed ceviche. This had great, biting lime & cilantro flavors on tender fish, squid, and shrimp. I say this is a must-have appetizer. We each ordered saltado dishes, which were "Peruvian-style stir-fry of meat, onions and tomatoes." I had steak (pictured), he had chicken; both were served with rice & fries. The steak worked with its seasoning better & was a bit more interesting, though the chicken wasn't bad either. I say they're certainly worth ordering, though I may explore other parts of the menu on my next trip. Also of note, the bread was good here. It had tender, slightly chewy crust, a crunchy inside, and was served with a tasty dip (warning: the dip packs some heat).
The Wine
We didn't really think about pairings going in, but things worked out. Starting with a rose' to go with the ceviche proved to be a great pairing. Keith brought a bit of a wine-geek bottle of rose', which was a great for the $20 price tag (note below), but I can imagine most any pink option working well with the ceviches on this menu, and many good roses can be had around or under $15. Bonus points here if it's Argentinian or a Spanish rosado. I could also see Torrontes working great with the ceviche, and quality examples of that grape can be had cheaply (Catena Alamos is <$10 at Binny's).
For main dish wines, we had one Italian Brunello & one Californian blend. Both worked pretty well with the food, but I think Spanish wines would do best. I say look for Tempranillo from the Rioja or Ribera Del Duero regions. A Monastrell (also from Spain) could work well too. Most bottles will have ample supporting structure & spiced oak tones, pairing well with anything from sauteed chicken to grilled steak. They often show bigger fruit, making them enjoyable to sip solo while typically being good food wines too.
The Whole
I do like Machu Picchu: good ceviche, tasty steak, and a menu that works with a broad set of wines is a win in my book. The staff was helpful & didn't mind that we took quite a while for lunch. As a bonus, Restaurant.com has coupons to save money here. The one downside: the decor is unlikely to impress on a first or second date. But, the food & wine options can provide an enjoyable change of pace from the normal routine.
Wines I recommend for Machu Picchu:
1998 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (9/3/2010)
A Friday mishmash (Chicago, IL): This was showing great. Nose has oranges, some other fleshy citrus fruits, hints of acetone, lots of nuttiness--primarily almonds & hazelnuts to my nose. Undertones of crushed red cherries exist as well. The palate comes through great with orange peel and citrus fruits with a touch of candied ginger & some nutty spice. Good slightly oily texture and a long finish showing a nicely balanced acid backbone. Went great with a ceviche dish. (91 pts.)
2005 Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (1/21/2010)
: Decanted an hour, re-corked & drank 90 minutes later. Nose is dark; blackberries with some dark red fruits and a touch of smoked spices. In the mouth this remains dark with a core of blackberries & some red fruits adding interest. Finishes pretty long with dense--but unobtrusive--tannins and tart red & black fruits with a smattering of enjoyably spicy oak tones. (90 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
If you're curious about the wines drank on my visit, click here
The Place
Walls have faux-stone blocks painted on them & photo murals of Peru. Light-filled space with a large front window. 2 TVs on low volume played soccer. A bar seating area is in the back. Tables have white cloths topped with white paper. Waitstaff was dressed in white button-down shirts.
The Food
The menu is fairly lengthy, with many dish types available. Most are chicken or beef, but plenty of fish & some veggie options are also listed. We started with a mixed ceviche. This had great, biting lime & cilantro flavors on tender fish, squid, and shrimp. I say this is a must-have appetizer. We each ordered saltado dishes, which were "Peruvian-style stir-fry of meat, onions and tomatoes." I had steak (pictured), he had chicken; both were served with rice & fries. The steak worked with its seasoning better & was a bit more interesting, though the chicken wasn't bad either. I say they're certainly worth ordering, though I may explore other parts of the menu on my next trip. Also of note, the bread was good here. It had tender, slightly chewy crust, a crunchy inside, and was served with a tasty dip (warning: the dip packs some heat).The Wine
We didn't really think about pairings going in, but things worked out. Starting with a rose' to go with the ceviche proved to be a great pairing. Keith brought a bit of a wine-geek bottle of rose', which was a great for the $20 price tag (note below), but I can imagine most any pink option working well with the ceviches on this menu, and many good roses can be had around or under $15. Bonus points here if it's Argentinian or a Spanish rosado. I could also see Torrontes working great with the ceviche, and quality examples of that grape can be had cheaply (Catena Alamos is <$10 at Binny's).
For main dish wines, we had one Italian Brunello & one Californian blend. Both worked pretty well with the food, but I think Spanish wines would do best. I say look for Tempranillo from the Rioja or Ribera Del Duero regions. A Monastrell (also from Spain) could work well too. Most bottles will have ample supporting structure & spiced oak tones, pairing well with anything from sauteed chicken to grilled steak. They often show bigger fruit, making them enjoyable to sip solo while typically being good food wines too.
The Whole
I do like Machu Picchu: good ceviche, tasty steak, and a menu that works with a broad set of wines is a win in my book. The staff was helpful & didn't mind that we took quite a while for lunch. As a bonus, Restaurant.com has coupons to save money here. The one downside: the decor is unlikely to impress on a first or second date. But, the food & wine options can provide an enjoyable change of pace from the normal routine.
Wines I recommend for Machu Picchu:
1998 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (9/3/2010)
A Friday mishmash (Chicago, IL): This was showing great. Nose has oranges, some other fleshy citrus fruits, hints of acetone, lots of nuttiness--primarily almonds & hazelnuts to my nose. Undertones of crushed red cherries exist as well. The palate comes through great with orange peel and citrus fruits with a touch of candied ginger & some nutty spice. Good slightly oily texture and a long finish showing a nicely balanced acid backbone. Went great with a ceviche dish. (91 pts.)
2005 Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero Crianza - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (1/21/2010)
: Decanted an hour, re-corked & drank 90 minutes later. Nose is dark; blackberries with some dark red fruits and a touch of smoked spices. In the mouth this remains dark with a core of blackberries & some red fruits adding interest. Finishes pretty long with dense--but unobtrusive--tannins and tart red & black fruits with a smattering of enjoyably spicy oak tones. (90 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
If you're curious about the wines drank on my visit, click here
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Tac Quick, take 2: "secret" menu edition
This should be considered an addendum to my previous Tac Quick post. A few of my wine folks gathered to explore the menu & pair it against many older Rieslings. This made for a great night.
The Food
From multiple sources, I have seen mention of Tac Quick’s “secret Thai menu,” but never took the opportunity to explore it (somehow, even when taking a date of Thai descent). We changed that on this trip, ordering many items from the “secret” menu that is actually posted and available on the front page of Tac Quick’s website. Our group ordered several dishes, feeding 5 of us family style. Nothing disappointed. Crispy fried pork was a highlight, and river snails (pictured) provided chewy enjoyment to those of us who enjoy eating odd things. Duck with noodles (Kuay Teaw Pet) was also excellent. Once all said & done, I owed only $20 after tax and hearty tip. For my wine group, this low tariff is unheard of--another reason that I am thankful to have Tac Quick within walking distance.
The Wine
Thai food and Riesling is a no-brainer; it‘s like milk & cookies or cheese & crackers--they just work. Find a Riesling with a hint of sweetness & a Thai dish with a little heat and the results will be good. This night brought many older (10+ year old) bottles, most with significant residual sugar, and all were great with the food. I prefer my Riesling a bit on the leaner (less sweet) side and found the Austrian bottlings a bit more enjoyable than the German offerings, but there were no losers on this night. If I began to think a wine was too sweet, I need only to add a bit more sauce to the food & the extra sugar then made perfect sense (yes, wine can give us permission to play with our food).
Ask your local wine salesman for a Riesling with a touch of residual sugar. They will most likely point you to a German bottle with a lot of strange words on it, but just trust it--especially if it says Spatlese (slightly sweet) or Auslese (a bit more sweet). In Chicagoland the best place to start is Wine Discount Center on Elston. There's a good German selection, and over the past 6 months they have had a glut of outstanding Austrian Rieslings at closeout prices (Prager & Hirtzberger being two fantastic producers). Fear not the $11 bottle that was once $45--it’s legitimate and will give a peek into serious Riesling at a price where many wines are seriously lackluster.
The Whole
Go to Tac Quick and take a Riesling. I’ll throw a bone & say that a nice beer (Half Acre Gossamer, Anchor Liberty) would be good too, but I hope you experience the balance between Thai food & Riesling. Tac Quick remains the best Asian cuisine I’ve had in Chicago and I hope you get a chance to explore the “secret” menu alongside a nicely chilled Riesling, as I believe that anyone who does this will have a great dining experience.
2000 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (2/26/2010)
Opened cold, drank over several hours while it warmed & opened.
Nose of soft white peach, apricot, white floral tones, a hint of tangerine, and just a little underlying peach pit & a mineral tone. Up front this brings great, pure white tropical fruits that juicily transition to a finish that fans out with medium acid, full fruit flavors, medium acid, and a thin bit of stoniness. (91 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
The Food
From multiple sources, I have seen mention of Tac Quick’s “secret Thai menu,” but never took the opportunity to explore it (somehow, even when taking a date of Thai descent). We changed that on this trip, ordering many items from the “secret” menu that is actually posted and available on the front page of Tac Quick’s website. Our group ordered several dishes, feeding 5 of us family style. Nothing disappointed. Crispy fried pork was a highlight, and river snails (pictured) provided chewy enjoyment to those of us who enjoy eating odd things. Duck with noodles (Kuay Teaw Pet) was also excellent. Once all said & done, I owed only $20 after tax and hearty tip. For my wine group, this low tariff is unheard of--another reason that I am thankful to have Tac Quick within walking distance.
Thai food and Riesling is a no-brainer; it‘s like milk & cookies or cheese & crackers--they just work. Find a Riesling with a hint of sweetness & a Thai dish with a little heat and the results will be good. This night brought many older (10+ year old) bottles, most with significant residual sugar, and all were great with the food. I prefer my Riesling a bit on the leaner (less sweet) side and found the Austrian bottlings a bit more enjoyable than the German offerings, but there were no losers on this night. If I began to think a wine was too sweet, I need only to add a bit more sauce to the food & the extra sugar then made perfect sense (yes, wine can give us permission to play with our food).
Ask your local wine salesman for a Riesling with a touch of residual sugar. They will most likely point you to a German bottle with a lot of strange words on it, but just trust it--especially if it says Spatlese (slightly sweet) or Auslese (a bit more sweet). In Chicagoland the best place to start is Wine Discount Center on Elston. There's a good German selection, and over the past 6 months they have had a glut of outstanding Austrian Rieslings at closeout prices (Prager & Hirtzberger being two fantastic producers). Fear not the $11 bottle that was once $45--it’s legitimate and will give a peek into serious Riesling at a price where many wines are seriously lackluster.
The Whole
Go to Tac Quick and take a Riesling. I’ll throw a bone & say that a nice beer (Half Acre Gossamer, Anchor Liberty) would be good too, but I hope you experience the balance between Thai food & Riesling. Tac Quick remains the best Asian cuisine I’ve had in Chicago and I hope you get a chance to explore the “secret” menu alongside a nicely chilled Riesling, as I believe that anyone who does this will have a great dining experience.
2000 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (2/26/2010)
Opened cold, drank over several hours while it warmed & opened.
Nose of soft white peach, apricot, white floral tones, a hint of tangerine, and just a little underlying peach pit & a mineral tone. Up front this brings great, pure white tropical fruits that juicily transition to a finish that fans out with medium acid, full fruit flavors, medium acid, and a thin bit of stoniness. (91 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
(k)new
The Start
A friend and I separately saw “Inception” its opening weekend and decided we should see it again, together, to fully understand & discuss its twists (yes, it’s great and you too will want to see it multiple times). Planning to catch our repeat viewing on a Wednesday, I had in mind to visit Sweets & Savories for $10 burger night and walk to the Webster movie theater after. As I didn’t call until that evening, S&S was completely booked. A couple of Google searches for restaurants near the city’s northern theaters showed that (k)new, right around the corner from the theater on Western, offers a $20 three course prix-fixe dinner. Having been to (k)new once and enjoying the food (but I found it expensive that first trip), I decided to give this discounted menu a try.
The Place
As many may know, (k)new is an iteration from chef Omar Rodriquez’s first restaurant, Think. Anyone who visited Think (formerly in Wicker Park) will quickly recognize similar décor in (k)new (located in Logan Square). Medium lighting, light-colored walls, white tablecloths, candles, clean lines, and accents that integrate glass & natural wood. Sunlight filled the front half of the restaurant early in the evening, but after sundown the space began to dim and the feel is comfortably intimate.
The Food
My first trip to (k)new came with wine friends. In typical fashion, we ordered multiple appetizers, large main courses, and many desserts. I recall the appetizers being interesting but slightly disappointing; conservative serving sizes made it difficult to share. The venison rack I had was delicious--as were all desserts--but the price tag outmeasured the dining experience, and it took the $20 special to draw me back (entrees here typically cost $18-$32).
This latest trip kept me to this prix-fixe menu, which includes a soup or salad, any entrée that isn’t lamb/ venison/buffalo, and a choice of two desserts. I had spinach soup (very good, with crème fraiche & a shrimp waiting at the bottom), shrimp & lobster cavatappi (an excellent take on grown up mac & cheese; pictured below), and tried both desserts (I preferred the blood orange crème brulee). We were also given an amuse bouche of tuna ceviche, which was a fun way to wake up the palate. My friend enjoyed her salad & pumpkin-seed crusted fish, and preferred the brownie for dessert.
We both came out fulfilled & pleased with the food, but there was one drawback: service time. We were in the restaurant nearly 2 hours and didn’t make it to the movie. While we didn’t especially mind and didn’t make our time constraints known to the staff, I was surprised at the amount of time spent waiting for each course. Ours could have been a unique experience, but keep this in mind if planning an evening here.
The Wine
As I mentioned, my first trip to (k)new was with a wine group. We tasted through several Barolo wines with age on them. These were great with the red meat dishes we ordered. If planning to dine from the full menu, hearty Nebbiolo (Barolo, Barbaresco, Langhe) is a great choice. Ask your wine merchant for a bottling from a traditional producer, which should give you something with some nice leather and/or floral tones.
The prixe-fix menu is a different story.
The only prixe-fix entrée that calls for red wine is the duck dish; if you plan ahead for duck, bring a Pinot Noir--I recommend a New Zealand bottling if you want to spend <$20, 2008 Washington or 2007 Californian if you can swing >$25.
Otherwise, the prix-fixe menu is white wine territory. In my rush to make reservations, a quick scan of the menu pointed toward Chardonnay as a great choice. I selected one from New Zealand, which honestly was just a decent pairing with the meal. It was vibrant and tropical fruit-forward; I was hoping for something with greater (medium) weight & a gentle touch of oak. Learn from my experience: stick to Californian (or South American, if branching out) Chardonnay here; Calera’s base Chard bottling ($15) is a favorite of mine and would have been outstanding.
The Whole
While the service this night was slow and caused us to miss a second digestion of Inception, the degaustation at (k)new provided a night of interesting food & comfortable conversation (no need to either yell or whisper here; I appreciate being able to use my standard inside voice while dining). The $20 price tag for Wednesday’s prix-fixe menu is one of the best dining values I have come across and is highly recommended. Take a bottle of Chardonnay and prepare for interesting flavors mixed into familiar dishes--(k)new pleases on many fronts, and in a ranking of mid-week dining options, I’m convinced most will place it high on their list.
2008 Craggy Range Chardonnay Single Vineyard Kidnappers Vineyard - New Zealand, North Island, Hawkes Bay (7/21/2010)
This was driven by crisp white peach, some yellow pear, and a bit of canteloupe. It was rather crisp in the spectrum of Chardonnay, finishing vibrantly with good hints of tropical fruit and a bit of minerally verve. Med length finish, decent mouthfeel had some viscosity but didn't have noticeable density.
Part of me wishes this had some more weight to it, but regardless--still a very good wine. (85 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
A friend and I separately saw “Inception” its opening weekend and decided we should see it again, together, to fully understand & discuss its twists (yes, it’s great and you too will want to see it multiple times). Planning to catch our repeat viewing on a Wednesday, I had in mind to visit Sweets & Savories for $10 burger night and walk to the Webster movie theater after. As I didn’t call until that evening, S&S was completely booked. A couple of Google searches for restaurants near the city’s northern theaters showed that (k)new, right around the corner from the theater on Western, offers a $20 three course prix-fixe dinner. Having been to (k)new once and enjoying the food (but I found it expensive that first trip), I decided to give this discounted menu a try.
The Place
As many may know, (k)new is an iteration from chef Omar Rodriquez’s first restaurant, Think. Anyone who visited Think (formerly in Wicker Park) will quickly recognize similar décor in (k)new (located in Logan Square). Medium lighting, light-colored walls, white tablecloths, candles, clean lines, and accents that integrate glass & natural wood. Sunlight filled the front half of the restaurant early in the evening, but after sundown the space began to dim and the feel is comfortably intimate.
The Food
My first trip to (k)new came with wine friends. In typical fashion, we ordered multiple appetizers, large main courses, and many desserts. I recall the appetizers being interesting but slightly disappointing; conservative serving sizes made it difficult to share. The venison rack I had was delicious--as were all desserts--but the price tag outmeasured the dining experience, and it took the $20 special to draw me back (entrees here typically cost $18-$32).
This latest trip kept me to this prix-fixe menu, which includes a soup or salad, any entrée that isn’t lamb/ venison/buffalo, and a choice of two desserts. I had spinach soup (very good, with crème fraiche & a shrimp waiting at the bottom), shrimp & lobster cavatappi (an excellent take on grown up mac & cheese; pictured below), and tried both desserts (I preferred the blood orange crème brulee). We were also given an amuse bouche of tuna ceviche, which was a fun way to wake up the palate. My friend enjoyed her salad & pumpkin-seed crusted fish, and preferred the brownie for dessert.
We both came out fulfilled & pleased with the food, but there was one drawback: service time. We were in the restaurant nearly 2 hours and didn’t make it to the movie. While we didn’t especially mind and didn’t make our time constraints known to the staff, I was surprised at the amount of time spent waiting for each course. Ours could have been a unique experience, but keep this in mind if planning an evening here.
The Wine
As I mentioned, my first trip to (k)new was with a wine group. We tasted through several Barolo wines with age on them. These were great with the red meat dishes we ordered. If planning to dine from the full menu, hearty Nebbiolo (Barolo, Barbaresco, Langhe) is a great choice. Ask your wine merchant for a bottling from a traditional producer, which should give you something with some nice leather and/or floral tones.
The prixe-fix menu is a different story.
The only prixe-fix entrée that calls for red wine is the duck dish; if you plan ahead for duck, bring a Pinot Noir--I recommend a New Zealand bottling if you want to spend <$20, 2008 Washington or 2007 Californian if you can swing >$25.
Otherwise, the prix-fixe menu is white wine territory. In my rush to make reservations, a quick scan of the menu pointed toward Chardonnay as a great choice. I selected one from New Zealand, which honestly was just a decent pairing with the meal. It was vibrant and tropical fruit-forward; I was hoping for something with greater (medium) weight & a gentle touch of oak. Learn from my experience: stick to Californian (or South American, if branching out) Chardonnay here; Calera’s base Chard bottling ($15) is a favorite of mine and would have been outstanding.
The Whole
While the service this night was slow and caused us to miss a second digestion of Inception, the degaustation at (k)new provided a night of interesting food & comfortable conversation (no need to either yell or whisper here; I appreciate being able to use my standard inside voice while dining). The $20 price tag for Wednesday’s prix-fixe menu is one of the best dining values I have come across and is highly recommended. Take a bottle of Chardonnay and prepare for interesting flavors mixed into familiar dishes--(k)new pleases on many fronts, and in a ranking of mid-week dining options, I’m convinced most will place it high on their list.
2008 Craggy Range Chardonnay Single Vineyard Kidnappers Vineyard - New Zealand, North Island, Hawkes Bay (7/21/2010)
This was driven by crisp white peach, some yellow pear, and a bit of canteloupe. It was rather crisp in the spectrum of Chardonnay, finishing vibrantly with good hints of tropical fruit and a bit of minerally verve. Med length finish, decent mouthfeel had some viscosity but didn't have noticeable density.
Part of me wishes this had some more weight to it, but regardless--still a very good wine. (85 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
Monday, May 17, 2010
Mado
Many of my wine drinking friends have given Mado ample praise for its provision of food that is simply prepared yet interesting. With a $40 Groupon waiting to be used, I decided to give it a go on Saturday night. I checked OpenTable.com that afternoon and reserved a table for 2 at 9 PM.
The Look & Feel
Mado stresses simplicity in its farm to table cooking. This dedication is well reflected in the restaurant's interior. Picture a farmhouse or old one room schoolhouse that's been altered to fit in an urban environment. That's Mado's dining room: large natural wood table in the center, hardwood floors & table tops throughout, gritty exposed brick, and artwork that isn't at all imposing or distracting. Add in comfortable chairs to stress the urban setting and it all mixes well. Of note, they didn't actually have wine glasses but instead served into small glass tumblers.
The Food
The menu here is printed daily, based on what's available fresh from farms in surrounding states. Many pieces reflect snout to tail selection--beef heart was available when I I visited and pighead stew is mentioned on the Mado website. While tempted, I stayed relatively middle of the road. Pictured below is the meat charcuterie platter--a country pate, cured thinly sliced pork shoulder, and a pate made from cheeks & jowels. The latter was absolutely outstanding--meaty, dark, heavier than expected, but still very clearly pork. The grainy mustard served with was excellent as well.
As an entree, we had the pork leg raillard. This was grilled & served with faro on the side. The meat was perfectly prepared and full of flavor. I had a side of gorgonzola polenta, which was a bit too salty on its own but was great with the pork. We took a 1/2 pound of "migas bark" to go. This is dark chocolate bark with some tasty/savory add-ins and very very addicting.
Meat Platter.
Wine Time
A more experienced wine buddy of mine suggested that if taking 1 bottle, I take Nebbiolo. This is always a safe bet, but I didn't have any on hand. I ended up taking an older Zinfandel and a Riesling. The Zin went great with the grilled pork, while the bold Riesling was able to stand up to the strong mustard and paired quite well with the meat platter.
I could see Pinot doing ok here, but if buying a red I'd go with a Nebbiolo (look for "Langhe" or "Barolo" or "Barbaresco" on a label of Italian wine) or a Syrah (esp if ordering grilled foods) that hasn't seen much oak--ask the folks at the wine shop, there should be plenty of options in these categories.
If planning to order the meat platter, picking up a dry Riesling from Austria or Australia could be a great option. Or ask a wineshop attendant for a bone dry Riesling from Germany or Alsace if you want to spend a few more dollars.
The Whole
I was impressed and will definitely go back. The food is interesting and well-prepared, pairing well with wine. Knowing the menu changes with the season and that any given piece of an animal can be featured is great; I look forward to a vastly different menu when I head back later this summer. Even in my fairly pedestrian ordering, I encountered some new vegetables & flavors I had not tasted before--always worth bonus points in my book. Take some wine, order daringly, and dig in: I don't see many being disappointed with what Mado brings from the farm to your table.
Wines I had:
The Look & Feel
Mado stresses simplicity in its farm to table cooking. This dedication is well reflected in the restaurant's interior. Picture a farmhouse or old one room schoolhouse that's been altered to fit in an urban environment. That's Mado's dining room: large natural wood table in the center, hardwood floors & table tops throughout, gritty exposed brick, and artwork that isn't at all imposing or distracting. Add in comfortable chairs to stress the urban setting and it all mixes well. Of note, they didn't actually have wine glasses but instead served into small glass tumblers.
The Food
The menu here is printed daily, based on what's available fresh from farms in surrounding states. Many pieces reflect snout to tail selection--beef heart was available when I I visited and pighead stew is mentioned on the Mado website. While tempted, I stayed relatively middle of the road. Pictured below is the meat charcuterie platter--a country pate, cured thinly sliced pork shoulder, and a pate made from cheeks & jowels. The latter was absolutely outstanding--meaty, dark, heavier than expected, but still very clearly pork. The grainy mustard served with was excellent as well.
As an entree, we had the pork leg raillard. This was grilled & served with faro on the side. The meat was perfectly prepared and full of flavor. I had a side of gorgonzola polenta, which was a bit too salty on its own but was great with the pork. We took a 1/2 pound of "migas bark" to go. This is dark chocolate bark with some tasty/savory add-ins and very very addicting.
Meat Platter.
Wine Time
A more experienced wine buddy of mine suggested that if taking 1 bottle, I take Nebbiolo. This is always a safe bet, but I didn't have any on hand. I ended up taking an older Zinfandel and a Riesling. The Zin went great with the grilled pork, while the bold Riesling was able to stand up to the strong mustard and paired quite well with the meat platter.
I could see Pinot doing ok here, but if buying a red I'd go with a Nebbiolo (look for "Langhe" or "Barolo" or "Barbaresco" on a label of Italian wine) or a Syrah (esp if ordering grilled foods) that hasn't seen much oak--ask the folks at the wine shop, there should be plenty of options in these categories.
If planning to order the meat platter, picking up a dry Riesling from Austria or Australia could be a great option. Or ask a wineshop attendant for a bone dry Riesling from Germany or Alsace if you want to spend a few more dollars.
The Whole
I was impressed and will definitely go back. The food is interesting and well-prepared, pairing well with wine. Knowing the menu changes with the season and that any given piece of an animal can be featured is great; I look forward to a vastly different menu when I head back later this summer. Even in my fairly pedestrian ordering, I encountered some new vegetables & flavors I had not tasted before--always worth bonus points in my book. Take some wine, order daringly, and dig in: I don't see many being disappointed with what Mado brings from the farm to your table.
Wines I had:
- 2002 Joseph Swan Vineyards Zinfandel Lone Redwood - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (5/15/2010)
Nose of cedary twigs, dusty red fruits, bits of blackberries, and occasional hints of something in the coffee/bitter chocolate realm of scents. Tasting brings forth dark red strawberries & notable black fruits that still have some juiciness with a coating of dustiness & woody/cedary spices. A touch earthy at times. Transitions to the finish with a pop of tart (pomegranate/unripe raspberry) acidity, little tannin, and slightly clipped length.
This went great with grilled pork leg raillard, having still enough acidity to stand up to the meat & char, which worked well with the earth/spice tones. (88 pts.)
- 2000 Prager Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Hollerin - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (5/15/2010)
Perfumed florals and tropical white fruits present themselves at first, but with time deeper aromas exude--not quite petrol, but a mossy scent comes out that is quite interesting. Hints of white grapefruit in the background give a sense of power. In the mouth this has gorgeous, bold presence; it's the tall beauty pageant contestant winning on determination & class. Rich pineapple, apricot, some citrus hints up front. Back end keeps those going with a well-balanced acid as some mineral, slightly earthen tones flow in beneath the fruit and bits of lemon. Dry. None too heavy, none too delicate, this is a great Riesling.
This was strong enough to do great with grainy, spicy mustard and a few charcuterie options. (90 pts.)
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Tac Quick
I'd been to Tac Quick once before, and this past week when I felt like a decent dinner out it came to mind as a place worth revisiting. I recalled a large menu with interesting specials & well done entrees. It repeated a good performance, giving me a good dinner out for not much cash.
The Place
Tac Quick is just about directly underneath the Sheridan redline stop. Inside is hardwood & nice tables. It feels urban enough and the glass front maintains that city setting with its view. I like the simple decor & felt it a good setting. They also have pretty impressive stemware for wine--always a plus.
The Food
On my first visit, I'd had the fish cakes (can't remember the Thai name--sorry) appetizer & Basil Duck special. Both were very good. This go around we had grilled octopus as an app. The meat was good, and the dipping sauce served with it packed a punch. My date & I split the clay pot noodle dish and both enjoyed it. Big shrimp, plenty of veggies, and tasty noodles. With mild heat, it was a tasty entree. Notably, Grilled Snails were a special of the day that tempted us, but we refrained.
The Wine
Thai food = heat; heat = sweeter wine. On my first trip I took an off-dry German Riesling that did great with my spicy duck & the heated fish cakes. This go around, I brought an Austrian Riesling that was a little too dry to handle the heat of the dipping sauce beside our appetizer, but worked great with the entree.
I'd look for an off-dry German Riesling here. Urbans-Hoff bottlings are a widely available, affordable option that I can recommend. Stepping up to Zindt-Humbrecht can give a higher-end option worth the extra bucks. Or, ask your wine merchant for a German Riesling with some residual sugar, but not more than medium sweetness. They'll probably hand you something with "Auslese" or "Spatlese" on the label--this means it has noticeable sweetness, which in our case means it will pair great with Thai heat.
The Sum
Tac Quick is great affordable Thai food with interesting specials and they do a great job covering the basics. Try out a special or give your favorite Thai dish a try here and my experiences tell me it won't disappoint. $2 corkage is reasonable and it's a great place to showcase a tasty Riesling. Worth the trip, which is an easy one if you're taking the redline, and worth the few bucks for a good atmosphere & enjoyable dinner.
The Place
Tac Quick is just about directly underneath the Sheridan redline stop. Inside is hardwood & nice tables. It feels urban enough and the glass front maintains that city setting with its view. I like the simple decor & felt it a good setting. They also have pretty impressive stemware for wine--always a plus.
The Food
On my first visit, I'd had the fish cakes (can't remember the Thai name--sorry) appetizer & Basil Duck special. Both were very good. This go around we had grilled octopus as an app. The meat was good, and the dipping sauce served with it packed a punch. My date & I split the clay pot noodle dish and both enjoyed it. Big shrimp, plenty of veggies, and tasty noodles. With mild heat, it was a tasty entree. Notably, Grilled Snails were a special of the day that tempted us, but we refrained.
The Wine
Thai food = heat; heat = sweeter wine. On my first trip I took an off-dry German Riesling that did great with my spicy duck & the heated fish cakes. This go around, I brought an Austrian Riesling that was a little too dry to handle the heat of the dipping sauce beside our appetizer, but worked great with the entree.
I'd look for an off-dry German Riesling here. Urbans-Hoff bottlings are a widely available, affordable option that I can recommend. Stepping up to Zindt-Humbrecht can give a higher-end option worth the extra bucks. Or, ask your wine merchant for a German Riesling with some residual sugar, but not more than medium sweetness. They'll probably hand you something with "Auslese" or "Spatlese" on the label--this means it has noticeable sweetness, which in our case means it will pair great with Thai heat.
The Sum
Tac Quick is great affordable Thai food with interesting specials and they do a great job covering the basics. Try out a special or give your favorite Thai dish a try here and my experiences tell me it won't disappoint. $2 corkage is reasonable and it's a great place to showcase a tasty Riesling. Worth the trip, which is an easy one if you're taking the redline, and worth the few bucks for a good atmosphere & enjoyable dinner.
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