Sunday, January 3, 2010

Maza

I'm hoping to write most posts the day after dining out with fresh impressions & pictures, but it's been a couple of weeks since visiting Maza. I have visited there twice in the past month and have been impressed on both trips, so the account should still be worthwhile. It's a BYO ($8 corkage) Lebanese restaurant on Lincoln Avenue near Diversey. Maza works to have a classy environment, which is marginally (pleasantly) buffered by its homemade feel.

The Food
Lebanese food? I expect plenty of Lamb, warm spices, and some interesting ingredients not so typical in American cooking (lentil, chickpeas, beets, tahini, etc.). Seafood has a significant presence on Maza's menu too, but I've stayed with the red meat on my visits.

On both trips I've had lamb. One night was a special, the other I had "Maza's Signature Entree" served for two. It was outstanding. Lamb with dark spices, served with rice that's stuffed with beef? Perfect. Others with me were pleased by seafood & chicken dishes. I've tried many of the appetizers and think they are all worth nibbling.

The Wine
Most of the red meat at Maza is lamb; some is chicken, and beef has a small presence. Our objective in choosing wine here is to have a bottle that won't overpower the lighter dishes, but still has enough backbone (tannins & acid structure) to work well with beef, if ordered.

I have had 3 wines on my 2 trips...a California Merlot that didn't really work (too dark & big), the Montes Alpha Syrah (good wine, worked great), and a Grenache blend from Cotes du Rousillon in France. In my opinion, the Grenache worked best; but the Syrah was a very enjoyable pairing as well.

Here's my suggestion when visiting nearby WineStyles, Binny's, or Howard's Cellar for a bottle: seek a Syrah from South America (or Northern California), OR something from Southern France (a Grenache or Syrah based blend). If asking a store employee, look for a wine that is "Syrah or Grenache, full-bodied, shows dark red fruit, but is earthy, herbal, or spiced"

Some bottles that would fit here are the Little James Basket Press ($10, Grenache-based Cotes du Rhone), the $16 Montes Alpha Syrah (from Chile), or the $15 Saint-Roch Chimeres (Grenache mostly, from France's Cotes du Rousillon).
Rolling a little deeper? Great fruit & structure can be had for $40 in the Jemrose Syrah (at Binny's, from Cali), or almost any 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape bottling (Grenache-based from France, $30 and up). As a wild card, try pairing with a good Chianti; like the 2006 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva ($25).

The Experience
Both trips here the waiter (also owner & chef I believe) has been friendly (although not quite 'warm') and brought us complimentary soup and/or dessert. He claims to have the best Hummus in the city, but I've yet to try it (next time). This is on Restaurant.com's coupon list, so that helps save $25 during the week. White-linen table cloths & soft music lend a bit of class, and the owner's contact helps create assurance that each diner's experience really matters to the staff. The interesting menu lends itself to multiple wine pairings, so I'm certain Maza will make my regular rotation and I strongly recommend making a visit.

Wines mentioned in this post:
  • 2006 Montes Syrah Alpha - Chile, Central Valley, Rapel Valley, Colchagua Valley (12/14/2009)
    Profile of dark blue & a bit of dark red fruits. Some vanilla comes up in the nose & mouth occasionally. Plenty of smoke as well. Medium mouthfeel, bit of tannins & acid on the dark fruit & smokey finish. Little interesting mixed pepper elements show up too. (86 pts.)

  • 2003 Havens Wine Cellars Merlot - USA, California, Napa Valley (12/14/2009)
    Throughout this is deep & dark. Plums, blackberries, blueberries. Touch of mintish herb or oak shows up at times. I could imagine this was plush years ago, but it's shed any baby fat that may have existed and now is deep with dark flavors and a pretty long finish. Not extremely complex, but good mix of dark fruits with occasional oak tinges. While big, not at all jammy or fruit bomby. (87 pts.)

  • 2007 M. Chapoutier Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages Latour (11/20/2009)
    This bottle was great. Splashed between decanters a couple of times, drank over the following 2 hours.
    Nose gives dark blueberries, a touch of blackberry, some dark raspberries & cherries as well. But it avoids being a fruity nose thanks to a nice brambly underbrush scent, good herb tone (thyme, sage), and a little bit of pan fond. Touch of smokiness too.

    Tasting brings in a mouthful of flavor that fills the mouth but is not at all bulky. It again carries the fruit well, mixing it with great herb and savory and underbrush tones. The finish has great balance of tannins & acidity lingering long with the dark fruit compote, mineral hints, a woodsmoke touch, hint of spice/pepper, and great length. All through the finish the various savory & fruit flavors ebb and flow.

    I was extremely impressed by the quality here. Great blend of flavors, enjoyable texture, and great interest at every stage. It paired perfectly with a rack of lamb around a rice/shredded beef mixture. Outstanding for sure, 92+ and a screaming value. (92 pts.)


  • 2006 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico (12/2/2009)
    Nose is dark fruited, with hints of tar & floral aromatics...came across slightly rustic. Palate felt very clean & full, with great dark fruits showing themselves nicely around light oak influences. Pretty long finish has plenty of tannin, but on day 2 it started to reveal more dark cherry & potpurri elements. I'd probably call it 88 on day 1, 90 on day 2, and potential to go higher. (89 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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