Bon Soiree

I had been eying chef Shin's seasonal menus for quite a while, after hearing of its quality from a few wine friends and later buying a Groupon to help save a few bucks. The 8 course Winter menu grabbed my attention. When I received an e-mail notifying me of a free bonus foie gras course, my resistance snapped.

The Place
Bon Soiree is located far West of my usual stomping grounds, in the westernmost part of Bucktown (I think it's still Bucktown, not certain though). It's a small, non-descript building with an empty lot next door. Inside is exposed brick, low/medium lighting, and minimal decorations that are comfortable and contemporary. Crisp white cloths cover the tabletops. It's a classy yet easy-going atmosphere that is perfectly suited to the food & experience.

The Food
Food at Bon Soiree is upscale modern with Japanese influence. I won't go into much detail on specific dishes, but in summary: this was the best meal I have ever had, bar none. I may be a pushover since this was my first visit to a restaurant that aims to push the envelope on flavors, but everything was outstanding. Many courses brought grins and ingredient combinations I had never experienced before. My personal favorites were scallop & peekytoe motoyaki and a veal/coffee consomme with chocolate and dumpling. I also really enjoyed my candied brussel sprouts. But honestly, there were no weak links here. Everything was interesting and worth paying attention to.
Most dishes shown here; click to expand

From Collages

The Wine
I spent weeks brainstorming the perfect combination of wines for this dinner, discussing options with fellow wine geeks and combing through my inventory. I settled on Champagne, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, and Pinot Noir (specific bottles noted below). Each of these worked great with a couple dishes, and overall the food was very wine-friendly. I suggest at least 3 bottles: a versatile white, a medium-bodied & dark-flavored red, and a light-bodied, more acidic red (probably Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo). If you can tack on a bubbly you'll be even further rewarded (my Champagne was just a half bottle).
For additional reference, when a friend asked for budget-conscious suggestions, I directed her toward a Calera Chardonnay ($15), Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero ($20), and Sherwood Pinot Noir ($14). These worked well for her, and together can cover a broad range of foods.
Best advice though: go to Howard's Wine Cellar on Belmont and discuss with him. Howard knows his wines and dines at Bon Soiree multiple times a year, so he is familiar with the menu & food.

The Whole
Outstanding. This is probably going to serve as my gateway drug to seek out similar experiences. I'd gladly sacrifice dining out once a month to free up the budget to visit Bon Soiree a time or two throughout the year. Of note, the waitresses were extremely helpful and positively added to the experience. Also, the Groupon I used here saved $50 and apparently I caught the 2nd occasion this restaurant has been featured on Groupon--so watch for that. They even added a bonus course of Hiramasa, bringing the total to 10 courses. While it's not easy to call an $85 meal a value, the chance to experience these creations is worth every penny. I have nothing but high praise for chef Shin Thompson's abilities, staff, and creations--I suggest you start saving some change and join Bon Soiree's mailing list to pounce as soon as a menu catches your interest. It's certain to delight.

My wine selections:

• N.V. Maurice Vesselle Champagne Grand Cru Brut Cuvée Réservée - France, Champagne, Montagne de Reims, Champagne
  Nose has baked pear, a hint of green apple, a fresh cream scent, and good lemony citrusy...very perfumed & intriguing nose. This has great crema, filling the mouth with rich tiny bubbles. The flavors show great depth (white fruits, citrus, dry oatmeal) and there's gorgeous body here...very rich, seductive mouthfeel. Finishes with a nice balance of acidity and baked pear/lemon tart flavors lasting for quite a while. (92 pts.)
• 2006 Brick House Chardonnay Ribbon Ridge - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge
  First served chilled. Nose of browned butter, baked flaky pie crust, fresh white juicy pear and a touch of red apple. Tasting initially brings apple & pear up front, then gains body and adds on toasted nuttiness (almonds, hazelnuts?) through the midpalate. Finish is a good balance of oak, baked apples, pear juice, and a bit of lemon for crispness.
  
  Leaves an impression of a rich body with full flavors. Oak is a part of this wine and was originally a bit strong, but as it warmed up
  this balanced out nicely. Paired great with a couple of rich seafood dishes. (89 pts.)
• 2005 Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
  Decanted an hour, re-corked & drank 90 minutes later. Nose is dark; blackberries with some dark red fruits and a touch of smoked spices. In the mouth this remains dark with a core of blackberries & some red fruits adding interest. Finishes pretty long with dense--but unobtrusive--tannins and tart red & black fruits with a smattering of enjoyably spicy oak tones. (90 pts.)
• 2006 Phillips Hill Pinot Noir Toulouse Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
  Great nose has a core of ripe dark cherries, Dr. Pepper aromas, some crushed red cherries, a raspberry tone, and dry spices. An interestingly dark and fragrant nose. The palate continues with dark & red fruits sprinkled with an array of brown spices. Elegant and mid-weight in the mouth. Finishes with strong structure, plenty of fruit, spice, body, and length.
  This is intriguing throughout and comes with a body that is both rich and elegant. This was a knockout with rabbit & oxtail. 91-92 and a bit more interesting than it was 15 months ago. (91 pts.)